Thumb-Nuts (Wingnuts, Knobs) - Metric and Inch, Fully 3D Printed - Two Versions
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Fully 3D printed thumb nuts with no other parts required.
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Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Mechanical Parts
- License
- Creative Commons — Public Domain
Description
Description
These prints are used to make completely 3D printed thumb nuts and should be considered “light duty.” For stronger thumb nuts using an inserted hex nut see the versions shown here :
https://www.printables.com/model/1234972-thumb-nuts-knobs-metric-and-inch
NOTE : For related Thumb Nuts and other knob and screw related prints see this collection :
https://www.printables.com/@kaje/collections/719205
The following Thumb Nut sizes are included here :
Inch
- #4
- #5
- #6
- #8
- #10
- ¼" (Knob-1-4)
Metric
- M3
- M3.5
- M4
- M5
- M6
Preparation and Use
These wingnuts should be considered for light duty use only, as the plastic threads will readily wear out or strip with excessive use or torque.
There are two versions of each wing nut, a tap and a screw version. The tap versions, as the name implies, must be threaded with an appropriate thread tapping tool. The screw versions are threaded by simply screwing in the appropriate size screw to in order to form the threads.
The tap versions will screw on easily; the screw versions create a very tight threaded fit (which will likely loosen up a bit with use).
In either tapping or forming the threads, I recommend doing this only manually (as opposed to, for example, using an electric drill to drive a tap or screw). In either case the threads must be made slowly in order to avoid excessive friction-generated heat. When Using a tap, I recommend backing out the tap frequently to remove “chips” (Isopropyl alcohol or ethyl alcohol can be used as a tapping lubricant if desired).
As noted, the thumb nuts which are "thread-formed" by screwing an appropriate size machine screw will be very tight. A method I have used successfully to “loosen up” the fit a bit is as follows :
- Choose an appropriate size screw that is double the length needed to screw fully into the wingnut
- Insert the screw until the full length of the wingnut hole is filled (with the rest of the screw sticking out)
- Heat the head of the exposed part of the screw until the wingnut threads soften a bit around the inserted part of the screw
- Allow the heated screw to completely cool, and then unscrew it
The above heating method takes only a little practice to get the screw heated correctly, but when done right it allows the formed threads to “relax” around the screw. The end result is still a very firm fit, although not as tight as before.
Print Instructions
I printed in PETG using these settings :
- 0.2mm layer height
- 3 perimeters
- 15% rectilinear infill
Note : I prefer to use PETG for use in the shop, but PLA would probably work for these as well.
CAD
The OnShape CAD files for this are here :