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K2 Plus Cartographer mount and shroud, custom PCB position — image 1
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K2 Plus Cartographer mount and shroud, custom PCB position

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K2 Plus Cartographer mount to install the PCB above the coil board to save space.

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Model information

License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

Summary:

This is my second version of the Cartographer mount and shroud to install the cartographer PCB directly above the coil board. The goal was still to get rid of the spacers in the y-axis which are needed for the regular installation. Because of the PCB being placed above the coil board, there is enough space to remove the y-axis spacers.

In this version I remixed the mount of @AnHe to get space for the PCB. The mount got some cutouts and I also reworked the mounting holes for the self tapping screws so that they can be printed without supports. The only support that is needed is for the PCB cutout.

To get the PCB mounted above the coil board it is necessary to solder the right-angled connectors that connect the PCB with the coil board in reversed direction. Additionally the JST connector for the USB cable should be soldered on the top side of the PCB (the side with the STM32 chips → see the photos of my installation). It may work when it's soldered as usual in the right-angled version of the Carto but it might be to narrow. So my advise is to solder the JST connector to the top side.

The shroud is the same as in my first version.

It would not be me, if I would be happy with just this remix. Because I had now 3 broken USB cables, I decided to do also a mod for the USB connection. For this I remixed my cable chain cover from my first version again so that a USB-C connector could be installed.

Here the link to the model of the cable chain cover I use:

https://www.printables.com/model/1277286-k2-plus-cable-chain-guide-with-usb-c-connector-for

This is fully optional and not needed to use this model but I want to show the way I installed my Carto.

 

!! Disclaimer: 
I made these models to improve my printer and use it at my own risk but I wanted to share them because I think others may find them usefull too. For this reason I am not responsible for any damages that my occour if these models are used. If I detect any flaws or issues, I will try to update the models and replace them with improved ones. !!

 

Print settings and material:

I printed mine in ABS and used 0.2mm layer hight, 3 wall lines and 40% infill.
The mount and shroud will need support.

BOM:

Mount and shroud:

As the original versions the following will be needed:

  • 2x M2,6x20 self tapping screws
  • 4x 6x3 neodym magnets
  • 2x M3 heat inserts (for the heat insert version of the mount)

Cartographer:

  • Flat pack version of the Cartographer (prefered, why read below) or
  • Right angled version of the Cartographer

Assembly:

Cartographer:

There are different versions of the Cartographer available. In the original version of the installation the right angled one is used. This version could also be used for this model, but I would prefer the flat pack version. The flat pack is better (in my opinion) because it comes completely unsoldered and the USB cable is alredy pinned as needed (for the JST connector soldered to the top side of the PCB).

Flat pack version:

This version comes, as mentioned above, with completely unsoldered connectors/pin headers, so there is no unsoldering required.

For the connection of the PCB to the coil board the right angled pin heades are used which are shipped with the Carto. They have to be soldered that the angled pins are pointing to the inner of the coil board and the PCB is soldered to them so that the top side of the PCB (with the STM32 chips) is also facing to the inner of the coil board. 

As mensioned above the angled JST connector should be placed at the top side of the PCB.

Please see the fotos for clarification.

Right angled version:

The both right angled pin headers which connect the PCB to the coil board have to be unsoldered and resoldered in reversed direction. Also the JST connector should be unsoldered and resoldered on the other side of the PCB.

!! Very important: The USB cable that comes with the right angled version has to be repinned. The +5V and GND pins (red and black wires) have to be switched and also the two data pins (green and white wires). !!

Config updates:

Because of the missing spacers in the y-axis the Klipper config should be updated, otherwise the mesh starts to close to the front edge of the bed.

Add the following line to the [bed_mesh] section in custom/overrides.cfg just below the “probe_count” entry:

mesh_min: 10,15

Links to the original models: