OEM Gamecube Controller Notched Gateplates

Overview

This is an improved version of Olympia's smoother parametric gateplates with a thread holder optimized for FDM.

The original was meant for resin printing but I find that resin gates feel less pleasant than FDM, as the stick interacts with the gate.

I premade STEPs for several useful notch patterns, as well as a circle gate.

Printing

• Material: PLA and ASA have been tested to work fine. PLA feels marginally better due to the greater stiffness, while ASA has better heat resistance in case a controller is left in a hot car.

• Nozzle: Everything is printable with 0.4mm nozzles, but a 0.25 or 0.2 is ideal for the drill jig and thread holder due to the thin spot. If you print with 0.4mm nozzles, you may need multiple drill jigs per shell. I actually prefer 0.4mm nozzles for the gateplates.

• Perimeters: If you do use a 0.25 or 0.2mm nozzle, make sure you use 5+ walls for the drill jig and thread holder for strength.

• Supports for gateplates: I use finely spaced standard supports with 0.17 or 0.18mm z distance. If your printer is capable of multimaterial, breakaway supports would be excellent. Support the entire near-level surface, but not the interior of the "dome".

• Layer height for gateplates: I use 0.2mm for everything up to the bottom interface, then use variable layer height to set the smallest possible layer height (0.07mm on my Core One) for as much of the top surface as possible. EDIT: Now I use 0.2mm layers for the entire top surface and 0.07mm for the top surface, and I use Z-contouring on OrcaSlicer to smooth the top surface.

• The gateplate particularly benefits from perfectly tuned PA and retractions, and your filament must be dry to prevent oozing.

Required Parts

• M2x8mm countersunk Torx screws.

  • Zinc-plated steel (magnetic): https://www.mcmaster.com/90236A105/ 

  • Stainless (non-magnetic but corrosion resistant): https://www.mcmaster.com/92703A146/ 

• M2 heatset inserts with 3.2mm diameter and 4mm length

Required Tools

• Flush cutters for gate removal

• 3/16" drill bit

• M2 heatset insert installation tool

Installation Instructions

1. Cut off the original gate with flush cutters. The remnants of the gate must not protrude above the top surface.

2. Insert the drill jig into the back of the front shell and use it to guide a 3/16" drill through the shell. You may need multiple drill jigs if it gets distorted by the force of the drill bit on the edges of the holes.

3. Install M2xD3.2 heatset inserts from the top (curved side) of the thread holder.

4. Insert the thread holder into the back of the gate. If it moves freely, secure it with glue.

5. Place your gateplate of choice on the front and install three M2x8mm countersunk screws.

See the original for diagrams: https://github.com/sean44104/Removable-Gate-OEM/tree/main

Note that you can be much rougher with the original gate removal because the opaque FDM gate completely hides it from view.

Notes

I don't know if my modifications still work with the original parametric functionality in Fusion. The parametric aspect isn't available in the free license.