First Layer Calibration Card

                       Getting the best first layer for Flash Forge AD5X, QiDi, and most others

What is Z offset

 Well simply put your Z offset = how far the nozzle is from the build plate when the printer thinks it’s at “zero.”

Think of it like parking a car, wheels being filament and the curb being the build plate;

• Too high → To far from the curb, plastic doesn't stick of floats.

• Too low → scraping the curb (plastic gets smashed)

Your goal is “close enough to stick, but not so close you gouge the build plate.”

This is what this Calibration Card does it helps you to achieve the best first layer by allowing you to make those small change to the Z offset and see the results

Most printers adjust Z offset in steps of 0.10 mm (50 microns).  But of course do what ever your printer allows .05 Yes that’s tiny — about half the thickness of a human hair — but it makes a huge difference

This Calibration card is set up for a:

• 0.4 mm nozzle

• 0.2 mm first layer

• Your STL is a flat, first-layer-only test (perfect)

So lets get started.

 Step #1

• Clean the build plate with dawn. Dish soap and Hot water. if you need to us can wipe down with 99 % IPA, isopropyl alcohol.

• Make sure filament is loaded. (best if a light color filament is used, dark color can hide gaps and make under extrusion look good)

• Make sure the bed is already leveled (manual or auto). if not do the auto bed mesh re-calibration, this is usually the bed leveling that the printer did when you first got it

Z offset tuning is not bed leveling. Level first. Offset second.

Step #2

• Start your first-layer calibration print

• Let it begin laying down the first lines

⚠ Do NOT panic yet — the first few seconds often look bad

Step 3: Adjust Z offset while it’s printing

Note: you will have to wait for the print to start be fore you can adjust the Z-Offset

Step #3 adjust your Z offset either up or down every segment of the card go one way first and wait to see the results, if bad or worse go back to the original number then go the opposite way. For a example if you go up after the first segment and your card starts to get worst go back to the original offset number you started with then go down.

On your printer screen:

• Look for Z Offset / Baby Steps / Live Z

• Adjust in 0.10 mm increments or what ever your printer will allow you do.
  then fine tune with smaller increment if you can   (Ad5X only does the .10mm) 

General rules:

• Lines not sticking / looking like strings? → LOWER the nozzle (negative direction) Using the arrow

• Plastic looks smashed or rough? → RAISE the nozzle (positive direction) Using the down arrow

Step 4: Lock it in

Once it looks good:

• Save the Z offset

• Let the print finish

• That value is now your baseline

• Run the bed mesh calibration again.

There is no need to run the input shaping or the hat end thermal cycling.

You normally do not need to redo this unless:

• You where way out of wack

• You change nozzles *

• You change build plates*

• You crash the nozzle

• You start questioning reality

* You might not need to do this only if the bed leveling check fails or you see that maybe your print is getting under or over Extruded.

What you’re actually looking for:

If the nozzle is:

• Too far away → LOWER the Z offset by using the UP arrow

• Too close → RAISE the Z offset by using the DOWN arrow

Remember it like this:

• Lower Z offset = “ If head is DOWN to LOW then adjust with the DOWN arrow

• Higher Z offset = “ If head is UP to high then adjust with the UP arrow

Or even simpler:

If it won’t stick → go UP Arrows
If it looks angry → go Down arrows

How fast should you change it?

Don’t chase perfection like a maniac.

Good adjustment rhythm:

• Change 0.10 mm

• Watch a segment

• Decide again

Never jump more than once per segment; unless things are very out of wack.