Working Clock for Busy Board

This is a working analogue clock for use on a busy board (or any other panel really). It's protected with an acrylic sheet at the top to make it fairly child-proof. It's mounted from the rear with two M3 screws. 

The "ears" in the corners are used to hide the movement from view.

Required Parts

• Clock movement: Young Town 12888S (or compatible) - 14.5mm shaft

• Clock hands compatible with the movement

• 2mm thick transparent acrylic sheet (cut into a 67mm diameter circle)

• Two M3 screws (length depends on the panel thickness)

• Two square M3 nuts

Printed Parts

General print settings: PLA, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle. Textured bed recommended for visible surfaces (clock face).

Clock Face

This part contains the labels and is printed in two colours

No MMU necessary, just set the slicer to two extruders (even if your printer only has one) before importing the two STL files, turn off the wipe tower, and add "M600" to custom G-code for tool change (this will cause the printer to stop and request a manual filament change where necessary). I also recommend removing the lines starting with "T0" and "T1" from the exported G-code file. The labels should be second STL file, so the print starts with the main part, then switches to the labels, and in the 2nd layer starts with the labels and then changes back (2 filament changes in total). Or just download the M3F file, it has all these settings already.

Clock Ring

This part attaches to the top of the clock face. The ridge at the top (to retain the acrylic window) requires supports, organic supports are recommended. 

Clock Spacer

This part holds the acrylic window in place at the correct height.

Locking Pin

This is an optional part that can be glued to the bottom of the clock face. With a matching hole in the panel, it prevents the clock from rotating. It should be printed upside-down (large surface on the bed).

Assembly

• Cut the acrylic into a circle. Small imperfections in roundness will be hidden, a hand saw and file is sufficient.

• Insert the acrylic window into the ring.

• Bend the spacer inwards and insert it into the ring. This requires a lot of force, and there is a danger of breaking the spacer. 

• Insert the two square nuts into the slots behind the face. You can use any of the 4 positions.

• Insert the movement into the face and attach the included nut. Make sure the pins on the rear of the face go into the corresponding holes in the movement. 

• Cut the hands to the desired lengths and shapes and attach them to the movement.

• Put the ring onto the face and rotate to lock into place.

• Cut a square hole into the panel, just big enough for the movement. 

• Drill two 3.2mm holes for the screws into the panel, 60mm apart.

• Insert the clock into the panel from the front, then insert the screws from the rear.