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Creality Ender 3 Max Neo Upgrades & Accessories — image 1
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Creality Ender 3 Max Neo Upgrades & Accessories

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Cable routing & clips, Filament spool relocation, Power switch relocation, Micro SD Card to full size SD Card

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I was given this Creality Max Neo printer and I proceeded to tune it up and create upgrades for my better use. 

SD Card Reader: If you use the TF Cards this converts it to full size SC Cards and eliminates wear and possible read failure from the micro-TF port. Best printing is on the end with tree supports. The mounting hole section is on a slight angle to hold it firmly against the printer housing. Do not tighten too tight or it could crack the plastic at the holes. The adapter is a Micro-SD TF Memory Card Kit Male to SD Female Extension bought from Amazon. The SD housing should fit snugly. Manufacturer molding can slightly vary.  If it does not fit snugly, shim or lightly glue it in so it can be replaced if needed. Downside, this will cover the other port, and it is not hot swappable. The printer will need to be turned on with the card already inserted.

Power Switch Relocation: I did not like fumbling around the side to turn the power on. This puts the switch right in the front beam and if you like flipping a switch up to turn a device on this can fix that too. Premake the cable about 14 to 16 inches. The more casing that is stripped back makes it easier to stuff the wires back into the front strut. Longer wires will help in assembly and can be stuffed back into the strut channel. I used an extra 16AWG power cable with ends stripped back several inches. I would not recommend an 18AWG. You can usually find the information stamped down the length of the cable. Three separate cables also work fine. With printer turned on and in preheat mode, it pulls about 4.5 Amps. One end put on three female 3/16" (4.8mm) blade terminals. The other end, grn / yel - 3/16" female, other two 3/16" male. All wires terminals connected together need to be insulated to prevent any strut or metal casing contact. 

Take off the strut cover by the control panel. Disconnect power and remove both screws to the power outlet / switch. There is not much room to pull the printer wires out. Disconnect all wires from assembly. Set aside red strap wire. It will not be needed. Remove switch from assembly. Use a small screwdriver working back and forth on the switch clips while pushing the switch out will take a little while. Push in new blank panel and hot glue or glue from back side. Next fish the three female connector ends through the opening to the front of printer. At the power input, connect the wires together, blue to blue, brown to brown, and grn / yel to terminal as pictured. Put back the two connectors to AC input as pictured. Make sure all connectors are tight. If not, disconnect and lightly crimp the female curled side closer to the flat. Work the assembly back into the strut and add the two screws. Either push in switch into panel and add wires or put wires through panel and connect to switch and push switch in panel. Set panel orientation for switch in an on or off position. 

Filament Spool Holder Relocation: Using the original side mount holder, unscrew it from its clip-on base. The printed D shape is used to clamp the holder level across the strut. Push holder's offset edge against top corner while tightening screw into strut with rotating T-Nut. The washers are added to make sure the screw clamps to strut before the end of screw hit into the strut.

Cable Management: The filament sensor cable looks a little stressed hanging down. The U-shaped clamp supports the larger cable, lifting the smaller one. Replace the two screws on the sensor with longer ones, tightening them down to hold the sensor. Slide the printed part with the cable underneath sensor onto the screws and add nuts to secure. 

The lower clips are put together with a piece of filament as the hinge. Insert filament and clip flush. Add a little glue to the filament ends to prevent filament from coming out. The one with the hole clamps to the lower frame with a screw and rotating nut. The other just keeps the cable bundle together. Print as many as you feel you need. Use tree supports and raft or brim due to thin design and hinge overhang.

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