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The Domino — image 1
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The Domino

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Modular fight stick.

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Model information

Category
Video Games
License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

The Domino is a modular fight stick assembled in layers and modules to afford customization in a small footprint. The diameter for the buttons are 23.8mm (hitbox style)

SOLDERING

❗NOTE: The only part you will solder that becomes "fixed" in place are the Amoeba PCBs. You have to position the PCBs in the TOBOGGAN then solder each one to the MCU from the bottom. This is the only quirk about the assembly as everything else can be done in almost any order. so have this completed BEFORE you begin assembly.

ASSEMBLY

TIP: Thread holes by driving the appropriate screw through them a few times before you attempt assembly. This will make driving the screws through multiple layers easier.

🔩 NOTE: The LEVER MODULE can take 4x M4 heat-set inserts at the corners where it joins the universal plate. You could get away with using an M4 nut below the assembly but its a very tight fit. You might also be able to just use the M4 screw and be okay.

  1. Combine LAYER 02 and LAYER 03 with the two M3 Screws that reinforce the built in strap hook cutouts.

  2. Attach the MOORING to LAYER 04 from the bottom of LAYER 04. (NOTE: the mooring has a hexagon impression at the top if you want to add an M3 nut to fasten it down, not necessary but nice to have)

  3. Assemble the Bar Plate. There is a small trench on one side, this for the ground wire to connect all the Amoeba PCBs and finally route below the adjoining plate.

    1.  Thread the screws until they barely peek out from the plate, this will help you fasten it to the TOP plate later.

  4.  Snap together the MCU module. Everything should be soldered to it already, but not necessarily connected to the other components/modules.

  5. Attach the TOP plate to LAYER 02 & 03. Drive the M3x30mm screws until they show on the bottom of LAYER 03.

  6.  Connect (solder) the MCU to the Buttons, Center Bar switches, Lever cable, and Ground. Slide all components through the top and fasten them into position.

    1. Fasten down the M3x30mm screws on the border of the case

    2. Insert the lever module and connect it

  7. Snap in the Button and Lever Top Plates

  8. Attach the BASE to the Button and Lever Plates and tighten them down with the M4x35 screws.

    1. Reminder: its helpful to thread the holes on the base of the COVERS before hand.

    2. You might need to screw-unscrew these to get just the right amount of "pull" on the COVERS

  9. Attach the HATCHES using the 5x10 PC FAN Screws

  10. Wedge the bumpons into the inset pockets on the hatches.

⚠ CAUTION: If you use a power tool to drive screws the end will be hot!

Purpose of the Hex nut inserts on LAYER 04 and BASE

These were added to LAYER 04 to try and mitigate the need for heat-set inserts. The idea being that the M3 screws would thread in the nut and pull upward with more surface area. In my build I found that they were largely unnecessary but I kept them in because I think mechanically it'd still work if needed.

On the BASE layer the hex nuts serve as a way to use clear plexiglass covers for the lever and buttons.  In doing so you'd run the screws from top to bottom and the same idea applies where they thread through the nuts and pull the layers together. You should be able to get a 4.5mm piece of plexi cut and it'd fit flush.


HARDWARE USED

Size

Length (mm)

Type

Count

M4

35

Socket Half Thread

8

M4

10

Pan

4

M3

10-12

Countersunk

9

5x10

10

PC FAN

12

M4

L4xOD5

Heat-set Insert

4-8

10mm

--

Rubber Bumpons

8

COMPONENTS USED

Name

Otto DIY V5 Kit

Kailh Hot Swap Sockets MX

Kailh Hot Swap Sockets Low Profile

Amoeba Royale v2 PCB

RP2040 Zero

Small Universal Adapter Plate

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