AMS to AMS 2 Pro Lid Conversion (For Eibos Tetras / Dyas)

Update September 24, 2026

The print profiles have been updated to include the feet and a few supports have been added from the main pieces. Install the feet as per the bottom bracket instructions from Eibos here.

Update September 13, 2026

I've added feet for full compatibility with the Eibos Tetras / Dyas. The difference between these and the one from Eibos is that the actual feet for these are in the same position and style as the stock AMS feet. These are currently untested so there is no updated print profile yet so I have just provided the 3MF files for now. Please leave feedback in the comments!

The print profile will be updated shortly once I've had a chance to test them but they should fit well.

The feet should be printed on its side (as I have placed them) for best strength. Some supports are required. As they are assymetrical, please see the imprint on each one for their position below the AMS box (FL = front left, FR = front right, RL = rear left, RR = rear right). Attach them the same way that is described for the instructions from Eibos here. Full instructions coming on this page as well soon.

Update June 18, 2026

There's been an update to the hinge left and right part, they now fit both the original AMS lid and the Eibos Tetras/Dyas lid. To "upgrade", all you need to reprint are the actual hinges.

 The print profiles have been updated as well. 

Thanks to @Skood on MakerWorld for the feedback!

About

This is an AMS to AMS 2 Pro Lid Conversion, it's needed for using the Eibos Tetras or Dyas lid on the AMS 2 Pro. 

It is also required for the upcoming Hydra x Tetras and Kraken x Tetras mods for the AMS 2 Pro, which is the main reason for the release.

The other upside is it acts as a lid riser, allowing for larger spools to be used.

Support

All my designs and mods on Printables are free to use and remix. They have a non-commercial license. If you enjoy this or any of my other designs you can send me a small donation using the link below. Thanks :)

https://www.paypal.me/humebeamengineering

Bill of Materials

You need some M3 socket heads. If you've used any of my mods in the past you probably have all you need already.

The following M3 socket heads are needed:

• 18 x M3-12 mm

Meaning 12 mm long screws (the threaded part). The length is not super crucial, you can use a little shorter if needed but not too long (max length is 14 mm).

If you don't have any at home it's best to grab this kit, it will have everything you need for this build and more:

• 150 pcs M3 Hex Socket Head Kit

Print settings

All parts print without supports. The main parts print upside down while the hinges and the middle rear print normally. If you're not certain, please use the included 3MF file where everything is rotated correctly.

I recommend using 3 walls and 15% gyroid infill or higher.

If you intend on using a heater, either stock AMS 2 Pro or Tetras, I recommend printing it in ABS or ASA or higher heat deflection temp. 

Assembly Instructions

Remove AMS 2 Pro lid from the box, it sits with four hex head screws from below, two on each side below the hinge. Use a 2.0 mm hex key to remove them. Keep these screws for later as you reuse them for the assembly of this mod.

In this example I'm using an empty AMS 2 Pro box and original AMS lid rather than a Tetras lid but the assembly is the same.

For a nice look you can have the main parts in one colour and the accents in another, in my case I went with Prusament ASA Galaxy Black for the main parts and Prusament ASA Pro Green in the accents (hinges, lid lock bars etc.

Remove the lid gasket from the AMS 2 Pro. It just sits with double sided tape from below and you don't have to keep the stickyness or even the double sided tape of the bottom of the gasket as it will sit with press fit (U-shaped slot with top edge) once you're done with the mod so it will stay in place.

To remove the gasket, you can just pull and tilt it a little with a hex tool then just pull it straight up and out.

Now before you continue, please dry mount all socket heads in the printed parts. The reason for this is to ensure they screw in correctly as they self thread into the printed parts.

Do this for all 20 screw holes including the hinges, example below just shows on the front joint block.

Front Assembly

Assemble the three front parts using the two front joints.

Here you can use two of the stock screws you got when you removed the stock lid. They go in the countersunk holes in the front left and right parts, into the front joints, the rectangular piece with cut corners in green in the pic below. 

At the same time, screw down the locking bars using 2 x M3-12 mm socket heads so that they are fully tightened.

Ensure you turn the original locking bars for the lid site fully sideways on both sides as the lid conversion installs above it, take a look at the cutouts two pictures above. 

Press in the "front" assembled piece in the slot.

Rear Assembly

Next, continue with the middle rear, rear left and rear right pieces.

It should now look something like this. If there seem to be minor gaps don't worry, the parts overlap so they fully interlock and do in fact seal fully together with the gasket.

Screw Assembly In Place

Now it's time to screw the assembly to the AMS box to ensure everything sits in place with no gaps.

Use 16 x M3-12 mm socket heads and washers and screw from below, you should see the screw holes if you flip the box upside down or turn it on its side, do whatever you feel is easier.

Screw them down fully so it sits gapless but don't overtighten them, remember these just screw into plastic. But be careful and it will be fine.

Do the same for both sides.

And also the two rear screw locations (those screw into the middle rear piece):

Install AMS 2 Pro Gasket

You can use either the original AMS gasket or the AMS 2 Pro gasket but since you're likely installing the Tetras (or one of my Tetras mods) you'll likely use the AMS 2 Pro gasket here.

As with all gaskets, begin with the corners, press the gasket down and center it using a 2.5 mm hex tool.

Do all four corners first, it will not look perfect but it will once you are done. :)

Continue doing the same at the middle and quarter positions.

Once you have done that you can just tilt and slide the hex tool across the gasket and spread it evenly, ensuring the gasket slot is centered in the middle (it should do that automatically).

The gasket should now be perfectly centered in the printed slot.

Installing the original AMS lid (or Eibos Tetras/Dyas lid)

Most likely you are installing the Eibos Tetras/Dyas lid but it also fits the original AMS lid.

To install the lid, just place the left and right printed hinges into the lid, they are marked L for left and R for right. :)

Top image is the Tetras, bottom image is of the original AMS lid.

Notice! For the Tetras/Dyas lid, the hinge pins are slotted and only fit into the printed hinge in a certain angle, just line up and press it all the way in and you're good to go.

Then press it down into the slot at the rear and fasten it with 6 x M3-12 mm socket heads and washers, same as the rest of the printed parts.

All done!

Test closing the lid and that the locking tabs hold it down firmly. The lid should seal fully in the gasket.

Hydra x Tetras or Kraken x Tetras Mounting

When using Hydra x Tetras or Kraken x Tetras on the AMS 2 Pro along with this lid conversion, install the included feet as per the directions here:

• Eibos Bottom Bracket for AMS 2 Pro

The feet included in my design are very similar to the ones pictured but adapted to have the the AMS feet in the same position as the original AMS box.