maimai slide note wand

Cast magic to create rhythm game pro catgirls!

Designed in collaboration with the University of Toronto Rhythm Gaming Club
2D club logo design credit: Jim Wang
Inspired by the "Slide" notes in maimai

CAUTION: Do not poke or hit with the wand, especially without catgirls' consent! You may be at risk of bites, scratches, or other injuries due to a snapped wand flying :3

Printing instructions

Print the tip and handle on separate plates.

• Nozzle: 0.4mm

• Layer height: 0.2mm / 0.16mm

• Top shell thickness: 0.8mm (for top surface quality)

Instructions: Tip

• Walls: 2

• Infill: 10% (Gyroid / TPMS-D) / 15% (Adaptive Cubic)

• Mouse ear brim on

Multicolor handling is optimized for printers with or without a multimaterial system (AMS/MMU...). The tip uses only 3 color changes, suitable for manual filament swaps. In fact the first five batches were printed on my single-material K1 TwT

For a perfect top surface, you might want to look into the Advanced top surface guide, use ironing, or both.

My material choice for the different shades of blue: Sunlu PLA Meta Ice Blue -> Creality Ender PLA Blue -> Creality CR-PLA Matte Navy Blue

Instructions: Handle

• Walls: at least 3

• Infill: 15% Gyroid / TPMS-D

• Scarf joint on and calibrated

• Raft: 3 layers, at least 5mm expansion, do not substitute with brim unless you have an extremely sticky build surface

• Slow down at height if you have a bed slinger

• Tune X-Y contour compensation if your printer has loose tolerances. The model already has 0.1mm clearance which works well for my Creality K1.

This might be an unusually challenging part for some printers. Thin and tall profile creates enormous leverage that causes the nozzle to knock the wand handle off the build plate. I've experimented with various build plates (textured PEI, smooth PEI + extreme temperatures, various cold plates) and the only reliable ways are either adding struts to gang multiple handles together for a more stable structure, or use raft. Only using brim would cause parts of the brim to be lifted from the plate, causing wobbling towards the top and print failure.
Hypothesis: A thick raft decouples the leverage between the nozzle and the build plate by allowing some very slight flex. In other words, the raft compresses / stretches while still attached to both the model and build plate, instead of peeling off like a brim. Similar build surface contact area, much more reliable result.

Scarf joint helps hide the seam around the circular wall. It's not mandatory for a successful print but highly recommended.

Material: anything with a reasonable dimensional accuracy and strong layer adhesion. PETG with minimal fan is the best for toughness, but PLA also works.

Assembly instructions

After removing the mouse ears from the tip, push the bayonet mount of the tip and the handle firmly together and twist clockwise.