Porch Light Fixture

This print requires the following additional parts :

• M4 X 16 (qty 4) Phillips flat head self-tapping screws - to attach Bridge

• M4 X 20 (qty 2) Phillips pan head self-tapping screws - for GlobeLock pieces

• Qty 2 - screws to attach fixture to wall; I used #8 X 1" construction screws with washers

• Optional - small magnets (see photos) to help hold support inserts in place

• Porcelain Threaded Socket

  • Patriot Lighting part number 345-7383

  • my cost (2026) $4.50

• White Glass Globe

  • 3-1/4" Fitter

  • Patriot Lighting part number 345-1973

  • my cost (2026) $8

• LED bulb, wattage/lumens of your choice

  • I used a "25w replacement" (2.7w LED), 250 lumens

I wanted to replace two old porch lights, but I couldn't find any new ones in the type of design I was looking for so I decided to try making my own. The basic design is a white glass globe (diameter 6in, 152mm) on a black ovoid base. In addition, the base is customized to fit flush to the shingles on my house, I have also included an alternate plain flat base for general use.

There are two major assemblies to the design :

• Removable globe assembly

  • Glass globe (purchased)

  • BaseGlobe print

  • GlobeLock prints (2); these hold the glass globe in the base

  • M4 X 20 (qty 2) Phillips pan head self-tapping screws

• Socket base assembly

  • Porcelain socket (purchased)

  • M4 X 16 (qty 4) Phillips flat head self-tapping screws

  • BaseShingle print

  • Bridge print (holds the socket)

  • HookUpper and HookLower prints (to fasten the globe assembly)

Assembly and Use

Since the BaseShingle piece is specific to the shingles and electrical box placement on my house, I will base these instructions on using the BaseFlat print.

Assemble the Socket base assembly by fitting the Bridge into the BaseFlat piece. Place the hook pieces over the screw holes (see photos for correct orientation), and screw the Bridge and hooks together to the base piece using the flat head screws. Screw the porcelain socket into the threaded section of the Bridge - as far as it will go - only about half of the socket will screw in (see photos), so as to position the light bulb correctly. I attached short wire leads to the socket prior to connecting to the electrical circuit to make connection easier (not shown in photos).

Use the BaseGlobe piece to check the fit on socket base assembly - it should drop on over the hooks, and then slide "down" to fit onto the hooks.

Assemble the Removable globe assembly by fitting the GlobeLock pieces into the collar of the glass globe - not the proper orientation of the GlobeLock pieces, they will only fit properly one way. With the GlobeLock pieces held loosely in place, fit the bottom of the glass globe into the BaseGlobe print. This will be a form fit, and will require some fiddling to get properly in place. I did this by pulling alternately of the GlobeLock pieces from below until the glass globe was fitting flush with the BaseGlobe piece. I then screwed in the two M4 X 20 screws to hold everything in place; do NOT over-tighten the screws - they only need to bite into the the BaseGlobe piece a little bit to lock things together.

WARNING! : These instructions are not a tutorial on how to wire in an electrical socket. Home electrical voltages can kill you. If you do not already know how to do this safely then get an electrician to do it.

With the two assemblies completed, the Socket base assembly can be wired in and fastened down to the electrical box.  Screw in the light bulb of your choice and switch on the power to make sure everything is working properly. Complete the assembly by fitting the Removable globe assembly over the bulb and flush with the BaseFlat piece so that it fits over both hooks, and then slide down to lock in place. 

It goes without saying (but I am saying it anyway), that the Removable globe assembly can be easily removed and replaced whenever the bulb needs changing.

Print Instructions

All of the structural pieces are printed in PETG. In order to get smooth surfaces on the overhangs of the BaseGlobe piece, two "support inserts" printed in PLA are used. The support inserts are added to the build plate during printing - the printing is paused at the two appropriate times, and the appropriate insert is added at each pause. The inserts are removed after printing.

Print in PETG (except support pieces) using the 3mf files provided, otherwise :

Hook pieces :
HookLower and HookUpper

• 0.2mm layer height

• 4 perimeters

• no infill

• brim

• print side end down

Support inserts (print in PLA) :
Note : Support inserts are one-time use only as they tend to warp after use.

• HookLowerSupport

• HookUpperSupport

• BridgeSupport (2)

• 0.2mm layer height

• 2 perimeters

• 15% grid infill

Bridge :

• 0.2mm layer height

• 4 perimeters

• 15% grid infill

GlobeLock (2 required)

• 0.2mm layer height

• 3 perimeters

• 10% grid infill

BaseGlobe :

• 0.2mm layer height

• 3 perimeters

• 5% grid infill

• two pauses required for support inserts

• support inserts required (see photos)

• optional : avoid crossing perimeters

• optional : scarf joints everywhere

Note : I used "avoid crossing perimeters" in an attempt to reduce stringing, but it really didn't help. I tried "scarf joints everywhere" to see if it would improve the seam appearance, but I think I preferred the print without it.

BaseShingle or BaseFlat

• 0.2mm layer height

• 3 perimeters

• 5% grid infill

• pause required for support inserts

• support inserts required (see photos)

CAD

The OnShape 3D CAD files for this are here :

https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e32ffe8c2e3d2f819b71fbda/w/4eea0ccb77ddec93bf02ebaf/e/65f980674047147482c969e9?renderMode=0&uiState=6a69f13bb909939ea952cb38