Nesco FD-75A Dehydrator Tray Riser

The Inspiration

I was a bit jealous of McLardAss' Nesco dehydrator tray insert (https://www.printables.com/model/684444-nesco-dehydrator-tray-insert). Nesco seems to make alterations to the trays at a whim. The version from McLardAss fits an older Nesco FD-75 and I have a newer FD-75A. When I tried theirs, it was too small and simply fell through the larger middle hole size.

I decided to make my own riser for the FD-75A, which apparently never shipped with trays utilizing a built-in riser. Out came the calipers!

Details

My solution has a very slight press fit onto the lower tray and doesn't require any glue. Even if the press fit ends up too loose for you, the ridges on the riser should keep things in place while still allowing trays to be removed and inserted freely. I've included two versions - one with solid walls and one with ventilation holes.

I've also included a spacer to use between two risers if you have empty tray rings. For fitting the very bottom of the dehydrator, you'll need two spacers because the bottom is deeper than the space between trays.

If you've cut up some trays like I have, you can save the inner rings for spacers as well.

You can use the risers and spacers to fit a whole spool of filament in the dehydrator, but only if those spools have a wide center hole (>=59mm). The risers are a bit too bulky to fit in smaller (50mm) spools, but others have made dehydrator risers that would do the job better. My focus is on weight support rather than maximizing space.

New Spacer

A new spacer has been added. See "Spacer Update October 2026" below.

Printing

These should be printed using heat-resistant material. The Necso dehydrators of this style don't get to very high temperatures, but it is high enough to deform regular old PLA. Use PETG or better.

There shouldn't be any need for supports, but you will want to print these with at least 5mm brims for the risers. OrcaSlicer won't think you need a brim for the walled version, but it is very wrong. Without a brim your print will be toppled in the final stages, ruining it. Enable inner and outer brims when printing both versions to avoid wasting material. I printed mine with 8mm brims. The spacer can get by without a brim because it's so short.

The details are not fine on these, so feel free to use large nozzles and wall height. I printed mine with a 0.4 nozzle at 0.2 layer height for the photos, but bigger should work just fine.

I also created thick walls for mine to accommodate the change in diameter from top to bottom, carry more weight, and mimic the dimensions of the features on the tray. They don't need much infill however. I used 10% Gyroid infill for mine. You can probably get away with 5%. The spacer should be printed at 100% infill because it's nearly solid anyway.

A Note on Usage

The walled version is mostly for stacking things that don't need airflow at their core. I would recommend against using it on the top shelf where the Nesco outputs air. The dehydrator relies on airflow and cutting that off near its "nozzle" is a bad idea. It may overheat your dehydrator, melt plastic, or at worst start a fire. If you must use a riser on your top shelf use the vented version.

When used on the bottom of the dehydrator, the same advice about airflow and the vented riser applies as the top of the dehydrator - though without all the melty, flammable scariness this time.

Spacer Update October 2026

I got tired of stacking two spacers below my bottom shelf and that not locking to the shelf correctly. Thus I've added a double-height spacer for use under the bottom shelf. It's been added to the model files as FD-75ARSpacerDouble.

Public Domain

It's a ring with bevels, fillets, and chamfers. Of course it's public domain. Do what you will with it!