Framework Desktop Mini

Intro

This case was created for two reasons:

1) I wanted an excuse to print the Framework desktop tiles despite not owning a Framework desktop.
2) see reason 1.

Note: I don't own a Framework Laptop 12 mainboard either so all dimensions are derived from their Git repos and Printables files. I've tried my best to print/recreate the physical location of key components to do fit tests but if you do happen to make this for your own mainboard please provide feedback :)

The biggest challenge was relocating the external power button while still utilizing the onboard microswitch. I tried an elaborate combination of level/pivot/scissor actuation method but ended up using the good ol fashioned bowden tube that anyone with a 3d Printer has spare.

Non-printable parts:

• 4x M4 x 20mm - Flat head machine screws (Countersunk) - attaching the baseplate to the lid,

• 2x M4 x 10mm - Flat head machine screws (Countersunk) - attaching bowden clamp to baseplate.

• 2x M3 x 10mm (or longer) - Flat head machine screws (Countersunk) - attaching faceplate to baseplate.

• Approx 160mm Bowden Tube (Capricorn/tight tolerance is best)

• Approx 175mm Filament to run inside aforementioned bowden tube; run'o'the'mill PETG seems to work best in testing.

• Optional: 

  • Brass inserts for alternate parts made for use with brass inserts.

    • 4x M4x~8mm for the case.

    • 2x M4x~4mm (or ~5mm) for the baseplate/bowden clamp.

  • 2x M6x30 Bolt + 2x M6 Brass Inserts for alternate through-hole handle - bolts can be flat  head, hex head, or whatever style available.

  • Stick-on rubber pads for the feet if you don't intend to use the printable feet.

Tools:

• 3D Printer

• PH0 for the Framework mainboard

• PH2 screwdriver for most of the assembly

• Small flat blade - preferably long-stemmed for assisting with the inserting of the bowden tube into the end clip.

• Cutter for filament - or just work-harden it until it breaks.

• Tube cutter for cutting the bowden tube - you could use flush cutters but be careful not to introduce a crush point.

• Optional : Thread tappers for M3, M4, M6 - and a thread die for M6 for the 3d-printed handle.

Installation

1. Install the Framework Laptop 12 mainboard into the baseplate using the mainboard's own captive screws. (Note: picture shown using a power button tester stand-in)

   

2. Using the 2x M3 screws, attached the faceplate to the baseplate (note, this needs to be done before adding tiles.

   

3. Place the filament length into the hole of the 3d printed power button.

   

4. Thread the other end of the filament into the bowden tube.

   

5. Position the bowden tube end closest to the button between the upper and lower parts of the bowden clamp and using the two M4 x 10mm screws lightly screw them down together - Don't clamp it down all the way yet.

   

6. At the opposite end of the bowden tube push the filament back into the bowden tube until it is flush with the end of the tube. Note: This will cause the bowden tube to push back from the faceplate and slide within the clamp - this is fine and expected, the clamp can be loosened again later for fine tuning.

   

7. With the filament sitting flush at the end of the tube; secure the clamp screws all the way. You can test the filament path by pushing in the faceplate button and pushing the filament back flush.

8. Using a flat bladed screwdriver. insert the blade into the crevice of the circular holder on the lower bowden clamp that sits above the power button.

   

9. Twist the flat bladed screwdriver to allow the bowden tube to be inserted into the top, try to get the tube inserted enough that it rests close to the power button.

   

10. Test the button press on the faceplate to make sure there's a definite click and spring-back, if not loosen the clamp and push/pull the bowden tube in the clamp until you get the same feel/sound in the video below:

1. Attach desired faceplate tiles (can be done later but it's easier to push them back out without the lid.

   

2. Using the 4x M4x20mm screws, attach the lid to the baseplate via the holes in the countersunk holes in the bottom of the baseplate.

   

3. At this step you can either proceed with attaching the handle or simply plugging the threaded holes at the top with the 3d-printed thumbscrews.

4. If you have 3D-printed the feet, they can be pressed into the rectangle openings on the baseplate, lengthwise matching the orientation of the baseplate - any stick-on rubber feet will suffice.

   

   

Attaching a handle

Default 3D-printed threaded version

Note: Just because you can doesn't mean you should - This was made for the lolz and if you want to have a safer/sturdier handle I'd opt for the other option below.

1. Screw the 2x double-bolts up into the handle as far as they'll go

2. Place the assembled handle into the recesses of the case and screw the double-bolts into the case - this will unscrew the double-bolt from the handle itself but there is more length in the handle-side than the case-side.

Through-hole handle

This version it still 3d-printed but uses proper M6 bolts and M6 heat inserts in the handle. The knurled region acts as an aesthetic spacer.

1. With the lid (through-hole version) not yet attached to the baseplate - poke two M6x30 bolts from inside the lid so they protrude out the top of the lid. 

2. Thread onto the two bolts, two of the 3d-printed knurled spacers, wide-side against the lid.

3. place the 3d-printed 7mm extended handle on top of the bolts and tighten from below. 

The lid no-hole alternate model retains the flat internal surfaces for through-hole bolting; it is intended to be remixed should you need a different spacing between holes - i.e. to use something like an Ikea BAGGANÄS D handle. I have some of these on order to try it out and will upload a specific lid and spacer model to suit when they arrive.

If, like me, you printed the modeled M6 threads and later opt to have a through-hole style handle you can use the M5 brass insert variant of the handle with the knurled spacers.

The handle is best printed in halves with alignment pegs - They can either be friction-fit or glued; when inserting the brass threads I would advise clamping the handle to prevent splitting.