alarm clock case

ViniClock Case – 3-Part Alarm Clock Enclosure 

A compact, screw-together enclosure for ViniClock, a DIY alarm clock I built to wake me up for school, because I really don't want to miss the bus. 🚌⏰

Designed in Fusion 360. Three simple parts, no supports needed, and only 8 small screws to put it together. The case is built around a custom PCB (KiCad), a small TFT display and a buzzer, but the shell is simple enough to adapt for your own desk-clock or ESP32 display projects.

✨ Highlights

• 3 parts: Bottom, Middle and Top (front plate)

• Compact: ~102 × 63 × 35.5 mm (10.2 × 6.3 × 3.6 cm), fits easily on a bedside table

• Display window: 79 × 22 mm opening in the front plate

• USB-C access: 13 × 5 mm slot on the back wall, centered, for power and programming

• Buzzer sound port: Ø12 mm round opening in the front plate

• Built-in PCB standoffs: four Ø6 mm posts with 2.5 mm pilot holes, so no extra standoffs are needed

• Prints flat, no supports needed

• Beginner friendly: fits any printer with a bed of at least 110 × 70 mm

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📐 Dimensions

| Part | X × Y × Z (mm) |

|---|---|

| Bottom | 101.3 × 62.3 × 23.0 |

| Middle | 102.0 × 63.0 × 12.0 |

| Top | 101.0 × 62.0 × 1.5 |

| Assembled | ~102 × 63 × 35.5 |

Other useful numbers:

• Internal cavity: ~92.5 × 53.5 mm

• Wall thickness: ~4.5 mm

• Middle and Bottom overlap by 1 mm for a snug fit

🔩 Screws you need

| Qty | Screw | Where | Hole in the model |

|---|---|---|---|

| 4 | M3 × 10 mm, pan or button head | Case corners: Top → Middle | Ø3.4 mm clearance in Top, Ø2.5 mm pilot in Middle |

| 4 | M3 × 6 mm, pan or button head | PCB onto the Bottom's posts | Ø2.5 mm pilot, ~8 mm deep |

Notes

• The Ø2.5 mm holes are made for self-tapping (thread-forming) M3 screws that cut their own thread in PLA or PETG. No nuts or inserts are required.

• The holes in the Top are not countersunk, so use pan, button or cheese head screws, not flat-head.

• M3 × 8 mm also works at the corners. Don't go longer than ~12 mm, or the tip will poke out of the Middle part.

• Check the mounting-hole size on your PCB. M3 is assumed.

• Go gentle. Plastic threads strip easily, so stop as soon as the screw is snug.

🖨 Print settings

| Setting    |   Recommendation |

| Printer  | Any FDM printer (largest part footprint is only 102 × 63 mm) |

| Nozzle | 0.4 mm |

| Material | PLA works great. PETG or PLA+ if you want extra toughness |

| Layer height | 0.2 mm (0.15 mm for the Top gives a nicer front) |

| Walls / perimeters | 3–4. The screw posts need solid walls to hold the threads |

| Top / bottom layers | 4–5 |

| Infill | 15–20% (gyroid or grid). The case isn't structural |

| Supports | None |

| Brim | Not needed |

Orientation for each part

• Bottom: open side facing up, flat on the bed.

• Middle: as exported, flat on the bed. The USB-C slot is a small bridge and prints fine.

• Top: flip it so the outer (visible) face sits on the bed. On a smooth PEI sheet this gives a clean, glossy front.

Tips for a better result

• Dimensional accuracy matters for the 2.5 mm and 3.4 mm holes. If your printer tends to over-extrude, clean them with a 2.5 mm / 3.4 mm drill bit by hand before assembly.

• Print a test fit of the Top first. It's the thinnest part (1.5 mm), so it prints quickly and shows you right away if the display window and screw holes line up.

• If you see a bit of elephant foot on the Bottom, lower the first layer flow slightly, or add a small chamfer in your slicer.

• To make the Top feel more premium, try a matte or silk filament, or use a contrasting color for the front plate.

• Don't leave it in a hot, sunny window. PLA softens at around 55–60 °C, so use PETG if that's a concern.

🧩 Assembly

1. Print all three parts and clean the holes if needed.

2. Screw the PCB onto the four Bottom posts with the M3 × 6 mm screws.

3. Plug the USB-C cable through the slot in the Middle part and place the Middle part over the Bottom.

4. Seat the display behind the window in the Top.

5. Close the case with the Top and fasten it with the four M3 × 10 mm screws at the corners.

🔌 Electronics (what it was designed for)

• MCU: Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32-C3

• Display: 2.25" TFT

• Inputs: 4 × Cherry MX-style push switches

• Sound: buzzer (12 × 9.5 mm footprint), plays the classic Nokia tune

• Power / programming: USB-C

• PCB: custom board designed in KiCad

• Firmware: C++ with the Arduino IDE

Full source for the PCB, schematic, BOM and firmware:

👉 https://github.com/Developer-Vini/Blare-ViniClock-

⚠ Notes

- This is my first complete project with Fusion 360 and KiCad, so I'm still learning. Feedback is very welcome!

• The case was designed for my own PCB. If you use different components, check the dimensions above before printing.

• If any part doesn't fit or needs adjustment, leave a comment and I'll try to improve the next revision.

💬 Remixes welcome

Want to add a different display window, a battery compartment, or a snooze-button cutout? Go for it, and please post your make or remix. I'd love to see it!