Elegoo Centauri Carbon Low Riser for CANVAS easy print

Hello there!

NO NEED TO LOWER SPOOL HOLDERS OR PERFORM ANY SPECIAL MODIFICATIONS TO THE PRINTER

I designed this model for myself but others had interest in it so I made it available for all. Simplicity is the key, every detail in my model is with purpose. I concentrated on ease of assembly, functionality and forgiveness during printing aka minimizing warping and making support removal easy.

There are no vents because the printer has an exhaust fan and you can feel free adn model your own, but please do not upload as your own or remake before consulting me first, this is kind of a community project but it was really for my own needs only so any mods done to this will need to kinda get my review before I accept your remixes and remodels, thank you for your understanding and please respect the license, it may change.

MULTIMATERIAL PRINTER RECOMMENDED - supports need to be either perfectly tuned or you should use a multimaterial printer with support filament (I printed in PETG with PLA support interface).

Before you get yourself into this endavour, please make sure that you have 2 rolls of wanted filament and some of support filament, 4mm drill bit in case your printer makes holes smaller, better too small and widen later than too loose, some glue to secure all pieces (optional), 2 M4 15-20mm screws, 2 M4 nuts, some pliers to remove supports and some positive energy :-) 

P.S. CANVAS gets attached to its mount with 3 screws it came with

INSTRUCTIONS

Print one of each connector type and check which one fits best.

Short: first print top and bottom frame + connectors then print middle parts and CANVAS mount last, all parts are named and those like "Front Left Rear Right" are to be printed twice. Make sure that "Front/rear" and "Side" parts are not printed 4 times because these are different lengths and printt 2 front/back and 2 side pieces. CANVAS middle part has its name and it has PTFE passthrough holes and holes for CANVAS mount bolts.

Long and more detailed:

Make sure your printer is well leveled, Z offset is correctly dialed in, buildplate clean and filament dry.

Orient parts to your will, but I recommend this: bottom parts to be oriented so that flat side with a slot (not connector slot but long thin slot) is on the buildplate (supports will do the rest), top parts can be oriented connector side down on the buildplate, mid flat parts to be flat on the buildplate and mid corners upright, make sure you use brims or mouse ears where needed.

My recommendation: 3 walls, 4 bottom and top layers, 15% infill, i used rectilinear, you use as you wish. I printed with 2 walls and it turned out great but if you need your riser to be really sturdy do 3 or even 4 walls.

Support: 2.5mm spacing between support lines (normal, not tree) 0mm Z top and bottom part-interface distance, 2 layers of interface, PLA as interface material.

For Each "layer" top, mid and bottom consists of 4 corners and 4 sides, 8 pieces, 16 total + CANVAS mounting plate. You also need 16 connectors, they need to fit snugly.

Assemble top and bottom "layers" frames first, then Lay mid layer on bottom frame, then add top frame. CANVAS mount should be secured to CANVAS with 3 screws it came with and then the mount with CANVAS should be secured with 2 M4 screws and 2 M4 nuts to the riser. Pull 4 original PTE tubes and connect them to CANVAS. Now we come to the part where I am stuck for now.

I printed 4-tube connectors and spaced them in such a way to guide the tubes to bend to behind toolhead and o the right, that is an ideal way to move so that there is no way for tubes to get pinched in between frame and the toolhead. I am working on a dragchain design or some guides to prevent tubes from gliding aka scraping under the glass, but that will not damage tubes or glass, as I have had multiple successful prints so far. Feel free to experiment and let me know.  Of course, I will add those parts after I figure them out.

Upon your further requests, I may incluse 3mf files.

Please share your makes!