Elegoo Centauri 2 Combo – Perimeter Lighting Retrofit (Version 5)

This is Version 5 of my lighting retrofit for the Centauri 2 Combo, adding clean, uninterrupted perimeter lighting around the top frame without needing to dismantle the printer. The design uses 13 printed parts with three interchangeable top‑right corner variants, supporting either no switch, a rocker switch, or a mini toggle switch. All wiring is routed safely through a new low‑profile cable guide, keeping clear of the print head and avoiding tape or adhesives.

The system is designed for 8 mm cut‑anywhere 24 V LED strips (COB recommended for continuous light) and slim L‑shaped LED connectors such as the O2P‑8‑L. Installation requires only removing the bottom plate, threading one cable through the chassis, and connecting to the printer’s unused 24 V output. This retrofit provides bright, even illumination across the entire print area while keeping the printer’s structure untouched.

Quick clip of it in use

Design Changes (v5)

• Profiles redesigned - not compatible with previous versions.

• Corners updated to accept L‑shaped LED‑to‑LED connectors (O2P‑8‑L mini buckle COB connector or any connector with the same dimensions).

• Member‑to‑member joining is now built in - no separate joiners required.

• New cable router prevents interference with the print head; no tape needed.

• Three versions of the top‑right corner (5a, 5b, 5c). All other parts are identical.

Corner Variants

• 5a – Standard corner No switch cavity. Use this if you want to wire directly to the motherboard light output (once pinout is known).

• 5b – Rocker switch corner Fits KCD1‑101 rocker switch (10×15 mm body).

• 5c – Toggle switch corner Fits MTS‑101 SPST ON‑OFF mini toggle switch (approx. 12.7×6.8 mm body).

All variants have more than enough depth for typical switch bodies. If you prefer a different switch, modify 5a.

If you want the LEDs to turn on automatically with the printer, simply omit the switch.

Parts & Tools Needed

• Allen key supplied with the printer (for bottom cover).

• 2× M3×8 bolts (max head Ø 5.2 mm) to secure the top‑right corner to the cable router (or use superglue).

• 1 m of 22 AWG 2‑core wire (≈1.5 mm outer diameter per conductor).

• Heat‑shrink or electrical tape.

• 1.3 m of 8 mm cut‑anywhere 24 V LED strip

  • Recommended: 8 mm COB cut‑anywhere for continuous perimeter lighting.

  • Standard 8 mm LED strips also work, but you’ll need to solder jump wires between perpendicular members depending on pad locations.

Installation Method

1. Print all parts, including your chosen top‑right corner variant.

2. Attach the cable router to the top‑right corner.

3. Install the LED strip, connectors, and switch (if used).

4. Thread the cable through the cable router.

   • Important: Bolt the top‑right corner to the cable router before final assembly — the wire crosses one of the bolt holes.

   • The LED circuit should start and end at the top‑right corner.

5. Complete the LED circuit (strip, connectors, switch, power cable).

   • There is enough cavity space in the top‑right corner to push the insulated connections inside.

6. Disconnect mains power from the printer.

7. Remove the bottom cover and thread the wire through the chassis, routing it behind the stepper motor.

   • Tip: A straightened piece of fencing wire or dental floss works well as a pull‑through.

   • Alternatively, remove the back plate (many screws).

8. Connect to the unused 24 V output on the Centauri 2 Combo transformer (screw terminals).

9. Observe polarity: Red = +24 V Black = 0 V (ground) Striped wire = positive Unstriped wire = negative

10. Test the circuit by powering on the printer and toggling your switch (if installed).

    • Be cautious: exposed transformer contacts carry 240 V.

11. Pull through any slack and reinstall the bottom cover.