Akash Kandil

Akash Kandil: Magnetic 3D-Printed Diwali Lantern Frame (Labelled, IKEA-Style Assembly)

Designed by Gaurav Agalave

A large, traditional Akash Kandil (Diwali sky lantern) frame you can print on a 220 × 220 mm bed. It's built from small hubs and struts that snap together with magnets. Every part has its name engraved on it, so assembly works like an IKEA kit: match the name on the strut to the name on the hub and plug it in.

Cover it with paper or fabric, put an LED inside, and hang it for Diwali or any festival.

Highlights

• Big lantern, small printer: about 47 cm wide × 61 cm tall, and every part fits a 220 × 220 mm bed.

• Every part is labelled: each hub has its own name (A1 to E4), and each long strut has the names of its two hubs engraved on its ends.

• Magnetic joints: the 5 × 3 mm magnets hold the frame together while you build. Glue the joints for a permanent lantern, or leave some magnetic so it comes apart.

• Ready for paper: the outer faces of the struts and hubs are flat, so paper sticks on cleanly.

• Signed sides: 22 of the struts have the designer's signature engraved on the inside, one on each side of the lantern.

• No supports on struts: struts print flat and are already placed diagonally to fit the bed.

Shape

The frame is a cuboctahedron with a short square "cap" on the top and bottom, giving the classic Kandil look. It's built in 5 levels:

What you need

Print settings

Hubs: use Lay on Face in your slicer and choose a face on the inner side (the side with the engraved name works well). Turn on tree supports.

Struts: print them exactly as they load, flat face down. Long struts are already placed diagonally to fit the bed. Fit 2 long struts per plate at most, about 3 mm apart. If your slicer won't fit 2, print them one at a time. Mouse-ear brims at the strut ends help them stick.

Files

Every file prints once, except strut_short_x8.stl, which you print 8 times.

Total: 20 hubs + 40 struts.

Suggested print order (23 prints)

1. Test the fit first

Push a magnet into each pocket and slide the strut into the hub.

2. Hubs (one plate per level)

3. Short struts

4. Long struts (2 per plate)

Magnets

Use the same rule on every part, so every strut end is attracted to every hub socket:

• Hubs: every magnet goes in N side facing out.

• Struts: every magnet goes in S side facing out, at both ends.

1. Mark the N side of one magnet with a marker and keep it as your reference.

2. Put a small drop of super glue in a pocket and press the magnet in.

3. Let the glue cure fully before you assemble.

4. Test: every strut end should pull toward every hub socket. If one pushes away, that magnet is in the wrong way.

Assembly

The one rule

A strut marked B2 at one end and C1 at the other goes between hub B2 and hub C1.

• Engraved names and signatures always face inward. Flat faces always face outward, where the paper goes.

• Short struts have no label. They always join the same number to the same number: A1 to B1, A2 to B2, D3 to E3, and so on.

• A, B, D and E hubs with the same number sit straight above each other.

Step 1: Bottom square

Lay hubs A1, A2, A3, A4 in a square with their free arms pointing up. Connect them with struts A1-A2, A2-A3, A4-A3 and A1-A4.

Step 2: Bottom cap walls

Push a short strut into the free arm of each A hub. Put a B hub on each one, matching the number: A1 → B1, A2 → B2, A3 → B3, A4 → B4.

Step 3: Bottom cap ring

Connect the B hubs with struts B1-B2, B2-B3, B4-B3 and B1-B4. You now have a shallow square tray.

Step 4: Lower diagonals and middle hubs

Plug the B end of each B–C strut into its B hub. Then put each C hub on top of its two struts:

The C hubs are not connected to each other. The frame is wobbly until Step 6, so hold it or prop it up.

Step 5: Upper diagonals

Plug the C end of each C–D strut into its C hub. These struts lean inward.

Step 6: Top cap ring

Put each D hub onto the two struts with its name, free arm pointing up. Connect the D hubs with struts D1-D2, D3-D2, D4-D3 and D4-D1.

Step 7: Top cap walls

Push a short strut into the free arm of each D hub. Put an E hub on each one, matching the number: D1 → E1, D2 → E2, D3 → E3, D4 → E4.

Step 8: Top square

Close the top with struts E1-E2, E3-E2, E4-E3 and E4-E1.

Step 9: Check

• No parts left over and no empty sockets.

• Every strut-end name matches the hub it's plugged into.

• All names and signatures face inward, and all flat faces face outward.

Make it strong

• Permanent: add a drop of super glue at each joint once everything is correct.

• Collapsible: glue only Steps 1–3 (bottom) and Steps 6–8 (top). The lantern then splits into 2 halves at the C hubs for storage.

Paper, hanging and light

1. Cover one side at a time. Put glue stick or double-sided tape on the flat outer faces of the struts around that side.

2. Lay the paper on, pull it gently tight, and trim it along the strut edges.

3. Leave the bottom square open so you can reach the light and heat can escape.

4. Tie a strong cord around the top square, around all 4 E hubs. Don't hang the lantern from a single magnetic joint.

5. Put an LED string or LED tea light inside through the open bottom.

Safety

• Use LED lights only. Never use a candle or any open flame. The frame is plastic and the cover is paper.

• Keep magnets away from children and pets. Swallowed magnets are extremely dangerous.

• Hang the lantern where it can't be knocked down or reached by small children.

Tips

• Lay out the hubs in five rows (A to E) on the table before you start. It makes finding each part much faster.

• If a strut doesn't sit flush with its hub, check that the names face inward. If they do, check that the hub name matches.

• Coloured or translucent paper with cut-out patterns looks especially good with the light shining through.

Remixes and feedback

If you print one, please post a Make with a photo of your lantern lit up. I'd love to see your colours and paper designs. Suggestions and remixes are welcome.

Happy Diwali! 🪔

Suggested Printables details