Fully 3D Printed Pin Hole Camera

This is a mostly 3d printed pinhole camera that uses 35mm film. The focal length is 50mm at an aperture of 0.25mm. 

How to use:

I used a DSLR camera with a 50mm lens for framing and a phone app for calculating shutter speed but if you have a 35mm digital camera you can use that with a f-number conversion table. Because of its lack of auto exposure, you need to know how shutter speed, ISO, and F-number work and therefore if you are not confident with how all of that works this is not for you!!!!

It is focused at infinity (and it can not be changed) so everything is blurry but photos from a greater distance will look better.

After each exposure, you will need to rotate the "Exposed Knob" clockwise (to the right) for one full rotation.

When putting the film in, remove the “Light Shield” and tape the end of the film to the “Exposed Roll” (I used gaffa tape) to hold it down, and then insert the film canister into the “Main Body” with the end with the knob on it sticking out the bottom. Then place the “Film canister washer” around the bit sticking out and push on the “Dark Knob”. Put the “Light Shield” back in and put the “Top” on the “Main Body”, then I would recommend taping it closed so no light can get in.

Once the “Exposed Knob” can no longer be turned wind the “Dark Knob” to the left to suck the film back inside the canister.

The non-3D printed parts that you will need are:

• A small circle of aluminium from a fizzy drink can (the thinner the better) with a small hole in it
• ¼-20 hex nut that is ~7mm in height
• M3x6mm button head bolt
• M3x4mm threaded insert with 5mm OD
• 4 small magnets (I used cubic 4mm^3 ones but anything around that size should work)
• superglue
• 35mm film
• Some paint
• Strong Tape

Assembly: 

For the pinhole in the aluminium, I used a 0.4mm sewing pin that I did not push in all the way to get ~0.2-0.3mm hole which results in an f-number of ~f/50. The Wikipedia page is pretty good for more info on pinholes and the maths. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinhole_camera

The ¼-20 nut is for mounting the camera on a tripod and glued into the "Tripod Nut Holder" printed part.

The M3 bolt and insert are for mounting the “Shutter” on the “Main Body” it should be screwed on so there is a small amount of friction when opening the shutter so it does not move accidentally. and then I would recommend putting some superglue or lock tight on the bolt to stop it from coming out.

The magnets are for holding the “Light Shield” in front of the film, therefore, creating the frame and protecting the already exposed film. They were quite hard to mount and I found the easiest way to was to glue the ones to the “Light Shield” like in the photo and then place the ones that go on to the “Main Body” on the “Light Shield” and put some glue on them and then use the “Light Shield" to place them on the “Main Body”. The “Light Shield” should be placed as close to the middle of the pinhole as possible to get the best photos.

The “Exposed Roll Top” and “Exposed Roll Bottom” need to be glued together end to end. as the circumference of the “Exposed Roll” is a bit longer than the length of a 35mm frame and therefore you should mark the “Main Body” and “Exposed Knob” with some paint as I have done in the photos. This is so you can tell when you have done one full rotation.

I had some trouble getting the “Exposed Knob” into the “Exposed Roll” and therefore had to file it down and glue it in so just be aware that will probably take some fiddling.

If you have any questions or if there are some unclear things in the instruction send me a message and I will get back to you asap, and there are some photos I took with the camera as examples of what it can produce.