1 / 20
Watercooling reservoir — image 1
1 / 20

Watercooling reservoir

Order a print of this model

We calculate the final price from your selected file. You review and accept it before payment.

Saved on this device.

Needed to upgrade watercooling setup for couple of my PCs and thought that why not design my own reservoir? So this is…

Rating
0 / 5
Likes
5
Downloads
56
Makes
0
Views
788
Reviews
0

Updated at source:

Model information

Category
Computers
License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

Needed to upgrade watercooling setup for couple of my PCs and thought that why not design my own reservoir? So this is the first design and I printed couple of these using PETG and Filaflex for gaskets.

Designed for immersive pump, Im using Eheim Compact 600. Has 2 16mm holes for passthrough tube adapters and 1 12mm for pump wire passthrough (see pics).

Models include gaskets which I printed using Filaflex.

After fixing the leaks and observing two reservoirs running on my bathroom for a couple of weeks, I installed the to 2 PC's. Still running fine after a couple of months. Just need to add water twice a month or so, seems evaporation is happening. Probably the top lid isn't that tight...

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Prusa

Printer:

Prusa Mk2

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2-0.3mm

Infill:

20%-100%

Notes:

Problems: as 3D printed parts aren't that solid, I had some small leaks here and there, mostly on the seams. With leaks I mean a very slow trickling, kind like sweating. So here are a couple of tips for getting watertight parts:

  • randomize seam position. I had seam on one corner -> leak
  • use multiple perimeters, at least 3
  • over-extrude a bit so less small gaps between perimeters. I bumped mine to 105% in Slic3r
  • set perimeter/infill overlap to higher number, like 30% or more
  • use larger nozzle. Bigger paths, less gaps. Second reservoir I printed with 0.8mm nozzle and it leaked only at the seam
  • vase-mode with large nozzle. Won't work with this model (at least haven't tried)

Post-Printing

Post-processing for fixing leaks

  • use soldering iron to melt the problematic parts. Careful not to mess the parts too bad. In my experience melting only to top most layers is enough.
  • glue. I tried hot glue, but not sure if it's a good long term solution. Some kind of silicone might work better.

How I Designed This

OpenSCAD. Source here: https://github.com/spegelius/3DModels/tree/master/Watercooling

Category: Computer

Tags