HUMMbug REmix for TAZ 4/5 Mutant Mount

I have had a Wham Bam Systems Mutant V2 in my hands for quite some time now. Once I received the new E3D Revo Hemera Lightweight hot end, I knew it was time for an upgrade.

Most of the reference pictures were taken from V1 of the mount, but as you can see, it took 5 more revisions to get it right. 
Included are the modified TAZ 4 X carriage (simple removal of the top side retainers), the mounting spacer that goes on the bottom of the X carriage to keep the lower part of the Revo mount from just hanging out in space, and the 6th generation (first iteration was V0) of the mount. I used the same fan duct as the original HUMMbug and most of the same required hardware. Assembly should follow the original directions, except for the Mutant Fixed Plate.
 

https://www.printables.com/model/107574-hummbug-the-hemera-unibody-mutant-mount

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4042492

Mutant Fixed Plate Assembly
Fasteners required:

• M3x8 cap head bolt, quantity2
• M3x10 socket head bolt, quantity 2
• M3 brass threaded heat inserts, quantity 4
   

Assembly instructions:

1. Use a soldering iron with appropriate tool to insert the M3 brass threaded inserts into the TAZ_X_carriage_for_MUTANT, into the holes marked in the last picture.
2. The X carriage will need other inserts as well, to match those in the X carriage you removed from your TAZ printer. 12-M3 threaded inserts, installed in the same orientation as those from the old X carriage.

I printed these parts using Overture PETG White, using an E3D Titan Aero 2.85mm hot end, with a 0.4 brass nozzle. 0.2 layer height with a 15% grid infill, 3 top/bottom layers, and 3 outlines. I also used support as I printed it in the vertical orientation as laying the mount flat always resulted in the front portions breaking off during assembly.

I have also included the Fusion 360 project files so you may remix at your pleasure (and see all my ugly mistakes!).

Yes, that is the e-step setting for this particular print head in the second to last picture. I put it on all my hot ends, as well as coding it into the print profile for each one in my slicer. Then I never have to worry about having the wrong setting and I can check it quickly at the printer without having to look in the slicer settings.

I have added the shortened version of the cooling fan. I found that the original didn't seem to give me enough clearance from the bed. I cut about 5mm out of the middle and stitched everything together.