TenLog D3-Pro Linear-Guide-Mod
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EDIT-Bugfix: Added new version of LinearGuidePlates L+R (Version V2). Front MGN12Cs are moved 10mm back for more print…
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EDIT-Bugfix: Added new version of LinearGuidePlates L+R (Version V2). Front MGN12Cs are moved 10mm back for more print space. Earlier version had approx. 5-10mm limitation.
Original guide with rollers in aluminum profile slots was not really durable, often needed to be re-adjusted.
I designed this linear guide for Hiwin MGN12C system with linear rail of 450mm.
The clou is that after disassembly of roller system you do not need to change anything on the printer, thus in case of failure you can 100% rebuild the old system. No drill holes, no threads to make. Just print, calibrate the holes to size, drill threads to the baseplates (if you want).
Only things you need for this is:
- 2 linear rails 450mm long
- 4 MGN12C linear bearings
- 4x4=16 M3x5mm cylindric screws (hex head) for the MGN12Cs
- 2x3x4=24 M3x6mm screws for attaching linear rails to 2x3=6 baseplates
- 6 countersunk screws M5x6mm (or max. 8mm) for attaching the 6 baseplates to the steel plate of printer D3 Pro
- 8 screws M5x20 or so and one washer each for fastening the heatbead-carrier to the new structure.
- Some filament, preferably ABS
- Patience and a little luck.
- You need 9 parts to be printed. Baseplates of linear rails are same left and right. They are numbered from 1 to 3 beginning from front. Number is visible and readable, not upside down.You need two of each baseplate.
Last: You need to put a spacer under the first screw left and first screw right in order to prevent taking the linear bearing out and loosing little balls. I chose a M3 brass insert for this.
This is a very important hint, which you may remember when you are sitting on the ground and search the remaining balls!
Print Settings
Printer Brand:
Prusa
Printer:
I3 MK3S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Doesn't Matter
Resolution:
200
Infill:
15-25%
Filament: Doesn't matter ABS or PETG Definitely your choice!
Notes:
LinearGuide_IdlerHousing is just mounted on the threaded cylinder, I put some thin selfadhesive tape underneath and let it sit as it is. In case of I need to open the bottom plate for another reason, I might drill a hole and thread into the base plate. As this is close to the UI-board I did not dare to grind metal parts by drill and threading. So I left this just "open", for failure or for later by chance.
Important to check that after reassembly everything fits like before! Especially the endstop flag for Y-axis optical sensor should fit. Check this before you destroy it! In my case the reassembly was so that the buildplate(s) came to the exact place (also in Z!!) where they were before.I definitely know that this solution is (e.g. in regard to mechanical grades of freedom) is not a 100% engineering-state-of-the-art solution! But if it works, then it's fine. At least for me!!
Category: 3D Printers