Prairie Desk Lamp

Designed this to host Lithophanes of our recent River Cruise.   This pattern has only the blank shade panels.   See below for details on panel size and guidance for lithophanes.

Added photos of assembly process.

Filament I used is Hatchbox PETG copper, gold and white.  Many people comment that it looks like wood.

I printed this with a combination of a Prusa Mini and a CR-30 printmill.

Supports are needed when printing the inner frame, outer rib, upper and lower cross, inner and outer uprights, shade top and pins.

You need one of each part except:

Shade top corner - 4 each

Shade bottom corner - 4 each

Shade bottom - 4 each

Shade inner frame - 4 each

Shade rib - 4 each

Shade panel - 4 each (size is 7.8"(198mm) x 4.4" (111mm) and the top of the shade panel is 1.7" (43mm).   I found it best to photoshop the image to remove the area that will not be used rather than attempt to cut down the full size lithophane.

Tools needed: Screwdriver  - also Soldering Iron, solder and wire cutters if you plan to use a switch.

Normal tools to clean up 3D printed parts.

Non printed parts you need to put this together include:

An E12 socket with a threaded base. - see photo   I used :DiCUNO E12 LED Light Bulb Socket, Candelabra Base Socket Replacement, Chandelier Candle Lamp Holder Parts with Cardboard Insulator, Keyless Phenolic, UL Listed, 6-Pack (amazon.com)

A ¾ or 1 inch Lamp nipple similar to what is in this kit: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Hobbies-ELYPACK-Hardware-Assortment/dp/B07DDQB2K3

Lamp Cord similar to: Creative Hobbies Transparent Gold Lamp Cord, 8 Foot Long, Replacement Lamp Cord Lamp Repair Part, 18/2 SPT-1 Wire, UL Listed (2) (amazon.com)

The upright is setup for a switch but could be omitted (but you'll have a hole.)

I used:https:https:HiLetgo 10pcs AC125V 6A ON/ON SPDT 3 Terminals 2 Position Toggle Switch MTS102: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Glue.   I used: Gorilla Super Glue Gel XL, 25 Gram, Clear, (Pack of 1) (amazon.com)

½ inch round felt or rubber stick on feet.   ( I punched out feet from product I have so no reference)

I also suggest using a larger wire tie as a strain relief for the cord.   Needs to be big enough to not go through the hole for the wire but small enough to fit in the cavity in the upright.

You must glue the shade parts together.   The frame and base fit tight enough that glue can be optional.

The fit for the base and frame parts is tight so you may need to do some post printing cleanup and may be able to omit gluing those parts.

With respect to assembly, order is important.

If you are using the switch, you have to do general assembly to determine where to cut the cord and solder it to the switch.   If you're not using the switch you still have assembly order issues because the shade is held on by the E12 socket.

In all cases:  

Test fit everything first.

Assemble the base top to the base using the pins.

If using the switch, install into the upright now.

Install a ¾ inch or 1 inch long lamp nipple into the lower cross part leaving ½ inch extending out the bottom of the lower cross part.   I threaded the lower cross part by using a long pipe nipple as a tap and then installed the shorter part.   A drop of glue on the threads before final assembly is suggested.

Install the lamp cord through the upright and upper and lower cross parts.

Temporarily install the E12 socket and temporarily assemble the upper & lower cross parts to the upright in order to determine where to cut one conductor of the cord to solder to the switch.    If using the switch, mark the location to cut the wire .

Disconnect the upright from the upper and lower cross and remove the E12 socket and separate the upper and lower cross parts.

You now have slack for cutting the wire and soldering to the switch.

If you are using the E12 socket noted above, it's mounting nut can be disconnected from the socket by a screw (see photo).   With this socket type you can fully assemble the shade and attach it to the lower cross with the nut and then pull slack through the upper/lower cross parts to allow you to attach the wires to the socket and then pull the slack back and screw the socket to the nut through the shade top - see photos.    If not using a socket with a detachable nut, you will need to assemble and glue at least 1 side of the shade after mounting it to the lower cross.

Shade assembly: Glue the 4 inner frame parts to the shade top and allow to set.   Test fit the 4 shade panels and shade bottom parts using blue tape to hold the lithophane to the shade bottom and shade top.   Once aligned, pop the shade bottoms out of the inner frame corners and glue into place.   Don't forget to leave 1 or 2 panels un-installed if not using an E12 socket that can be disassembled.

Once all panels are installed in the shade, glue the ribs and top and bottom corners into place.

Once the shade  and E12 socket are mounted to the lower Cross, carefully remove slack in the upper/lower cross and press them together.

If using a one piece E12 socket complete the shade assembly now.

Connect/insert the outer upright into the upper/lower cross(see photo) then the inner upright

Install the uprights into the base.

Have fun!