5 Gallon Bucket Hydro Tower
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I saw the model put together by a couple others to make a hydroponic tower and I modified them a bit
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Updated at source:
Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Outdoor & Garden
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
Update 30JUN23:
Added a 3mf version of a majority of the files, to locate them they have 3mf included in the beginning of the file names. If I missed a piece or you want a different piece, let me know.
Update 17APR23:
Fixed an issue with the V2 base piece, a small gap in the model was causing print issues. The file to use is the Tall V3 as of now, the V2 will be removed.
Created a Cut-Down version of the V3 on a new upload page, I will be updating other files to print on smaller beds. The link to the New page is: https://www.printables.com/model/455434-5-gallon-bucket-hydro-tower-for-smaller-print-beds
Update 15APR23:
Revised the shower head to include tabs that sit on top of the V-shaped ledge at the top of the side pieces. I have a few pieces printed out and the older version shower head may be too narrow for it to stay in position. I have left the V2 files and added the V3 version. Once I can test the new design I will remove the V2.
Update Morning 12APR23:
Due to some fitment issues, I made a small change to the flanged lid file. The connection point made it difficult to access for maintenance so it has been removed. Please use the V3 file going forward to avoid this problem.
Added a split file for the screen insert it is now 2 pieces, it will need to be printed on the cut edge and glued/welded together.
Added a taller base piece to help with tipping, either base piece can be used. The taller one has a slightly tighter fit for the side pieces and is meant for use with the screen.
Added three tools I use all the time for 3D printing to the list.
Update Evening 11APR23:
Reduced the diameter of the bucket mount circle to a little above 11 ¾ inches to fit a little more snugly on the top of the bucket. All three test pieces printed out great for me, I hope the same for you. Please use V2 going forward
Made a screen that sits between the bucket mount and the base of the hydro tower to keep debris out of the pump, may thin it later depending on fitment with the base of the tower. I will add a split file tomorrow. (This item is untested, I will reiterate once printed if necessary.)
Created a plug for empty holes in the tower to block light ingress in case the end user doesn't have enough plants to fill all the holes. I remixed a Coffee leaf into it to make it look nicer, link to the original is below (This item is untested, I will reiterate once printed if necessary.)
****Next I plan on creating an anchor/attachment point to interface between the bucket mount, screen, and tower to keep it from falling over if it's too tall.****
Update Afternoon 11APR23:
Modified the shower head into more of a tray/pan style and it should use less filament and possibly take less time to print. This will need to be welded/glued together and sealed to hold water. I also added a threaded connector to attach a ½" npt connection or a garden hose adapter to go to the pump. The files have been replaced and are now live. They are named Shower Head V2 Side A & B and Shower Head V2 Connector. I have also added the original file address to this page.
Update Morning 11APR23:
Added a refined V3 Side Piece file, just a few edges slightly corrected. The old V3 file is fine to use, it isn't use-impacting.
I added a new top-piece V2 file that includes a connecting tab slot like the rest of the side pieces.
The bucket attachment file prints out pretty well, with no real issues to report and it takes approximately 5 hrs at a 0.48 layer height and 10% infill to print.
The water scoop is locked into place pretty well once the full ring is printed and assembled, I have no planned refinements for this part.
The net pot adapter ring is a bit fragile so be careful upon support removal and install.
I am in the process of redesigning the shower head to use less material and potentially take less time.
Refined some of the descriptions below as well as added a few links to products I use. These are affiliate links and purchases will help me develop/remix more 3d files/prints in the future. The links are at the bottom of this text block.
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Update 10APR23:
I am adding a couple new water scoops with holes to help direct the flow of the water a bit, I will keep the original part in the file so you have a choice on which one you'd like to use. The first scoop had no holes due to a production version of the Hydro Tower having no holes in their scoop.
I did some testing in Tinkercad and included a screenshot, doesn't exactly mimic water but the idea is there.
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Update Evening of 09APR23: I updated the V2 Side Piece to a V3 version, the connector stick had an issue inserting into the lower section of the stitch plates, the new update should slide right through. I relocated the locking nubs inside the center connection point and made them a little narrower as the original wouldn't allow the stick to insert fully. I also changed the connector stick from V1 to V2 it now inserts from the bottom only, has a limit tab, and protrudes from the top to connect to the center connection point. V1 Connector Stick and V2 Side Piece have been removed to avoid confusion.
Arc overhangs are not viable, the arc overhang file ends up being 26hrs to print vs a little over 5hrs for one side piece and one locking tab.
Update Morning of 09APR23: The V2 side piece seems to fit perfectly and the full stick connecter works great. Both helped close up the gap my original remix created. The locks for the gutter aren't super tight, this problem may fix itself once a full ring is made. I will also be exploring Arc overhangs to potentially get rid of supports. If arc overhangs work I will include a sliced file, I have a 0.6mm nozzle so they will be sliced as such.
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This model is not completely printed and is only lightly tested by me at this point, I printed 3 side test pieces to verify they fit together, I have updated the side piece file and connector piece file for fitment issues and made a locking tab for the gutter piece. It is a remix of two models I found on Printables one of which was the original and the second was a remix. The hydroponic tower is similar to the one I have on order however is slightly narrower which means I can fit it in a smaller space.
Changes I made:
I modified the base portion models to fit a 5-gallon bucket, added beveled sections, and made a few water channels.
I added two different sizes of net pots based on the ones I have coming and others I have sitting here, the adapter ring is for the smaller of the two pots.
I changed the shower cap portion to fit ½" PVC pipe, relocated the nozzles directly above the first and second layers of pots, made it a bit thinner, and added keyed sections around the perimeter for it to sit on. I also added a split version of the cap so it fits on an i3 Mk2 Prusa bed.
The original model for the sides of the tower didn't have connecting flanges, water gutters, or a way to route water to the pots so I added all three and made a water gutter that keys in under the net pot.
For the top portion, I added a perimeter flange for it to sit on top a bit more centered.
The connector piece I added is from the original creator of the tower file, I haven't tested its design or placement yet, and it may require changes or modification, I won't know until the print finishes.
As far as these changes go, as I mentioned everything is untested by me at the moment, the side panel and water gutters seem to be printing fine at a 0.48mm layer height in PLA. Three side panels, three gutters, and one connecting piece are taking approximately 18hrs to print on a Prusa i3 mk2. The prints should be oriented correctly in the files unless you print things differently.
For assembly instructions please look at the original file by “The TrampBear”, their page has really good instructions to assemble this item.
The water gutter/scoops fit into a slot under the net pot hole and the scoop portion faces the pot (Please see reference Image).
I plan on using a 3d pen to “weld” the parts for the top and bucket mount together with scrap PLA filament. If you're looking for a good 3d pen to put prints together with, I use the SCRIB3D Advanced at this link https://amzn.to/40UYouT I have put together a ton of prints with it and it works great.
This is the flat white filament I am using on this project, so far it is printing very well and has a unique texture almost a paper or wood-like feel to it. I am printing this at 218c with no stringing or other issues. https://amzn.to/410suNi
This is the flat black filament I will be using on this project. It is the same brand and quality as the last one. https://amzn.to/3nXGDMB
This is the shiny black filament I have been using for years for prototyping, I have run through many spools of it with no issue. They have grey and white available too. https://amzn.to/41eIFqJ
Normally I have issues with flush cuts but this brand had lasted the longest and stayed sharp so far, I use them all the time. https://amzn.to/3Mzvf3Z
I also use a deburring tool a lot to remove the brim on prints or to clean up holes. I've even used to shave down edges if needed. https://amzn.to/41h90Uk
I also use the BuilTak Spatula to get my prints off the bed so far I haven't cut myself or damaged the print surface with this one. (non-affiliate link) https://www.buildtak.com/collections/removal-solutions/products/buildtak-spatula