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Panda BoomBox
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Print with white PLA+ Top vumeter is optional, but it looks so cool to have them!
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Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Audio
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
All models are created in FreeCAD which are also uploaded here, just in case you need to make some changes.
If you have any questions, please leave a comment. I will try my best to help.
Happy 3D printing!
BOM:
- 2x speaker drivers (mine are 85mm)
- A bluetooth + amp board. I'm using a TPA3118 bluetooth stereo board, but there should be enough space for 2x mono amps + separate bluetooth module. If you can find a reasonable priced CSR8675 board, go for it, it will give you bluetooth 5.0 and aptx HD.
- https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOPINCN-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Digital-Receiver/dp/B07NWM1595/ref=sr_1_14?crid=JIPO74RVWI3G&keywords=tpa3118+board&qid=1683846441&s=electronics&sprefix=tpa3118+board%2Celectronics%2C67&sr=1-14
- https://www.amazon.co.uk/LanGuShi-Amplifier-Lossless-Bluetooth-PCM5102A/dp/B08R98ZPRH/ref=sr_1_4?crid=10AVFQS4HLVN9&keywords=CSR8675+board&qid=1683846100&s=electronics&sprefix=csr8675+board%2Celectronics%2C64&sr=1-4
- Must-have optional vu meter.
- A good quality power supply. Low quality power supply will add a lot of noise. Depending on the speaker drivers, you will need different input voltage. My speaker drivers are 6 Ohm 20W, 16V input voltage works great.
- VU meter board requires 12V input voltage, you can use either a buck convertor or a LM7812 + 2 capacitors. LM7812 requires a bit knowledge of wiring (datasheet below). Although buck convertor is simpler, it does introduce some noise.
- Bass radiator. Again it depends on what speaker drivers you are using.
- Push bottom switch
- Soldering skills + lots of your time!
