Hal 9000

This is my rendition of the HAL 9000 from 2001 A space odyssey. It has the facility to turn the LED on and off WITHOUT having to lift the unit off the wall and without changing the look of the unit in any way whatsoever. The marks/blemishes shown on the 3d render are not in the final build.

Note :- I have learned a lot about design after creating this. Hal was one of my first proper builds and I was more than happy with the print. Every so often I consider coming back to do improvements, then I see how little attention it gets from people so always pass it by in the tweaks and updates files. If you want it in a better form? Hit the like button. As it stands it isn't worth the time and effort improving it when my copy is already done and in use.

I originally printed off a version of Hal that somebody else had created on thingiverse. I found way too many issues with it, both in the design and in the difficulty of putting it together in a simple manner. To that end I started from scratch and built what I know is a far better thing both in build quality and functionality. If you just want a static exhibit and don't want the hidden switch facility you can just skip the whole mech/switch option entirely and go for a simpler illumination option (both options are explained in better detail in the notes). I keep promising myself that I'll change the oversize switch aspect but never get around to it. but it works well so maybe it will never be changed.

When assembled it's approximately 15 inches by 5 inches with the frame depth at around a centimeter so not an insignificant amount of printing. It is designed to be a sturdy unit so 30 percent infill was a minimum for me, but there is no reason not to drop it to 20 if you want to save a little time and pla.

Items used to create this (full build/assembly details are provided

2x colours of PLA. Black and silver (colour choice saves painting it later).

1x 100mm arcade button (I have seen this go for as low as 6 pounds sterling).

1x microswitch (I used the one that came with the 100mm button).

some wire (I used some from a dead keyboard cable).

1x LED (you could use the one from the button, But I went with

cakelights as they also come with batteries, they sell for

around 4 pounds per pack of 5).

1x sticky label (printed in HAL blue and cut to size for nameplate).

Solder and soldering iron (you could just twist the wires and add a drop of glue if

soldering isn't something you do. Not ideal, but its certainly

an option. Alternatively, If you plan on not wiring iin the

switch option, just use a cakelight and a blob of blutack to

hold it in the lens, going that route there is no wiring so no

need for solder and iron.

Superglue.

optional 4x small bolts a tap to tap a thread into frame to secure frame

together (alternatively, nuts and bolts or just glue it).

tweezers (the letters of hals name were way too small for my

sausage fingers.

A stack of books to press/hold things together while glue set

Print time (estimated)

larger face panels, eye/lens, frame segments and grille all took me a minimum of 4 to 6 hours per item.

Rear Mech unit for switch activation, silver frame surrounds and nameplate were all considerably less. nameplate and inner ring were around 40 mins if memory serves.

Actual build time once everything was printed? if you include wiring and sorting bolt holes it was around an hour. most of that was the filing holes, wiring and letting glue dry between fitting it all together. ultra fast superglue, no bolts and steady hands, you could comfortably assemble it in less than twenty mins

Also hosted on pinshape at https://pinshape.com/items/105707-3d-printed-hal-9000

This is a link to the switch operation on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0q0LBPFqdQ

Updated Eye/refractor added to file set March 28 2021. Not tested as My HAL is already firmly assembled and I don't have another button to check fitments beyond virtual tests. Fitment tolerance change, Better external diameter and lens ring while keeping the same light catching central segment. It is possible the new version may prevent use of the optional external black ring. If for any reason this doesn't suit your purposes then use the original version as that was fully tested and used in my build.

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3 Pro

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

200

Infill:

30

Filament: sunlu PLA

black and silver

Notes:

If you orient things correctly there are no supports needed throughout. This choice made the mechanism for the on/off facilty and switch activation a little more pla intensive, but the trade off is worth it and it works well. The grille works and fits perfectly but is wrong in terms of movie replica accuracy, I had previously built a HAL using a proper grille for my lady and had nothing but trouble printing it. It took 4 attempts to get one decent print. Add to the fact I built this from the ground up and recreating the grille 'screen perfect' wasnt a priority for me )others have already done a good job of that component elsewhere on thingiverse). It just wasn't something I was prepared to do and if you want to use an alternate more movie accurate version its an easy option. This HAL design is tailored to having that option available.

I have included a third panel option (unused on my own print) so that if you do want to source and use a more movie accurate grille, it is an easy enough task to achieve. just find one the right size and slap it on the blank panel.

As with many (nearly all in fact) other versions of 3d printable HALs, the one part that is not 3d printed is the lens. For that you need an easily sourced 100mm arcade button. I will add a link to it later, but note you can find it significantly cheaper elsewhere than the linked item. The button usually comes supplied with an LED and microswitch. I actually used a different LED but the supplied switch was used in this build to great effect and was done in part because anyone buying the button will likely now have that switch available to use.

I didn't want to have to keep lifting HAL off the wall to turn it on and off, so I designed it so that (apart from battery changes) you never have to move the main unit. If you follow the build instructions you will be able to turn the LED on and off by simply rotating the lens unit a few degrees.

The front panels are recessed into the frame. Once fitted and glued to the frame you will be left with an additional one mm recess around the panel edge to allow for the silver surround to sit in (making it very easy to fit) which will also hide the points where the face panels meet the frame. I added a few additional frame intrusions to allow for ample glue points to hold the panels firm.

The grille is designed to sit on that secondary recess and marry up with the silver surround bars. I did it this way so that anyone using my grille doesn't need to print the third (lower) face panel as the grille fitment will completely hide the void. The frame was designed to not show a gap if you opt for my grille and no rear panel.

If you choose to use somebody elses grille you will obviously need that third panel. I didn't print that panel as I didn't need it on mine (its a long print time for something that was not needed) so its the only part I cannot say fits perfectly though there is no reason it shouldn't.

If you do use the third panel and an alternate grille, please say something here so that others following that route know how things turned out. It will also tell me if I need to change anything with that panel.

The upper face panel has a recess on three sides but NOT the fourth and is specific in its fitting orientation. The recess MUST be at the top of the unit as the lower side without the recess butts up flush against the middle 'eye' panel. You can see that recess clearly in the 'parts pic'. It is shown upside down in that image solely so I could show it. If you fit it in the wrong orientation the silver accents will not sit right. I designed it, I built it, and even I initially glued it upside down and had to correct it quickly, so it is easily done.

The 100mm button is not needed in its entirety. You only need the actual lens, not the internal white panel or the outer enclosure. To remove the lens from the button enclosure just squeeze the two white tabs at the back and it pops out. Try not to get fingerprints inside the lens, they will show once the LED is lit on the final unit.

I made the 'eye in a way that allows the button lens to sit flat for easy fixing. There is enough tolerance to allow for print quality variations, so make sure it sits central when finally glued it in place. I also added optional inner and outer rings that I printed in black. They gives a slightly enhanced look to the finished build and to my mind looks better than without it.. You can decide on whether you like those additions or not and build yours accordingly. My version of Hal now has new the outer ring fitted which it didn't when I uploaded the original files and pictures so I have added a couple of extra HAL pics to show it as it looks with both optional rings fitted in both illuminated and off states.

Originally I added holes in the frame to allow for wiring. I didnt go for absolute accuracy there as at the time they were not planned to be structural. So although they more or less line up, they are not perfectly aligned, my intention originally being to glue the three parts together. In the end I chose to use the holes to bolt the frame together as it was considerable more sturdy than using glue and a lot less fiddly, while also allowing for minute adjustments rather than the stress of a rushed superglue attachment method. The upper frame holes were just enough out of alignment to need a little filing tor the bolts to correctly align. I tapped all four of the middle frame holes and bolted into those. There are no threads in the upper and lower frame components of my build. The frame fits perfectly after slightly elongating the upper frame holes to get some lateral play. Rather than spending half an hour filing at the holes of the upper frame, it is easier to heat up a hot nail and just melt a little plastic in the hole to get the desired tolerance. Or just do what I was going to do originally and just glue the frame together.

I designed this HAL so that the turning the outer lens will turn the LED on and off. It involves having a rear printed mech component firmly attached to the lens, the microswitch that comes with the arcade button, a little common sense in placing the microswitch and a bit of wiring along with the LED itself obviously.

For those wanting an easier way of illuminating the lens without changing anything externally, a really simple option (and the one I put to use on my first print of someone elses design) is cake lights. Disposable little led units for bakery types to illuminate their work. They are small self contained balls containing an led, batteries and a rudimentary on off control method. I bought some for the first version I printed and had them lying around so I butchered one for use as a more permanent fitment in my new HAL and wired it to the switch. So if you want the simplest way of illuminating HALs eye and dont mind lifting it off the wall to turn it on and off then you have that option and like the main version, there is no visible switch from the outside. This would also mean you wouldn't need the sunflower mech part in the rear of the unit as you can just glue the eye/lens to the faceplate as there is no need for it to move using just a cakelight.

I will add a link at the bottom to show what they look like so you can source some if you go that route, they cost around a pound each. The HAL lens silver component has been worked to allow for fitting a cake light without any issues. Hold it in place with a bit of blutack if you go this route rather than a permanent fixture so its easy to replace when the battery goes flat. It's worth noting that I hollowed out the area in the rear centre of the eye to allow for this option so the ball didnt protrude beyond the frame and hit the wall, if your printer is tuned in you wont need support. But if you are in any doubt you can add support to that one piece. I printed it both with and without supports to test it and had no issues with either. Batteries on cake lights last around 24 hours if left on permanent.

 I designed HAL to be a fairly stress free build and went back to correct any issues before sharing it (this is technically my 3rd revision). I printed mine using black and silver PLA so that I didnt need to paint anything later.

Instructions as to how I built it.

Using black pla.

print off the face panels. If you are using my grille you only need the upper two.

print the three parts of the frame.

print the optional lens ring if you are planning to use it.

print the rear mechanism for the switch gear if you want the lens twist power option.

OPTIONALLY print the third face panel if you are using a different grille to mine.

switch over to silver pla.

Print the 'eye' lens unit, the surround accents, the grille and the name badge

Glue or bolt the frame parts together making sure they align well.

Take the middle panel (with the hole in), align the rear switch mech so that the ears are pointing towards the top of the hal unit making sure that the mech protrudes through the panel and sits flush, if not you may have to finagle it a little to get it flush. Now add superglue to the centre of the mech unit on the front taking care to not get any glue on the face panel as this component needs to be free to move(I added a recess to the ring to assist in preventing any glue getting where it shouldnt). Align the silver 'eye' lens and push it against the rear mech then make sure they are kept firmly together while the glue dries. While this is drying, glue the upper face panel to the frame (making sure the recess of the panel is at the top of the frame).

If the middle 'eye' panel is dry and firm, you can now glue that panel in place. The lens should be nearer the bottom of the unit.

Glue the grille in place if you are using mine. If you are using an alternate then you will need the third panel, affix the third face panel and put your grille on that.

If you are using the mech/ on off switch option, I would suggest adding the wiring components and LED now. Its preferable to doing this after adding the surround strips as at this point the unit is easy to manhandle without issue. The switch that came with the button is the one I used with this project, but any press switch microswitch will do here. I made the mech component so that it would activate the switch early, and if you go too far it will butt up against the switch preventing it being turned too far. Do a few test fits, find the best place for the switch so that you wont overcam it and when you are happy, glue the switch in place. I deliberately didnt add support here in case you prefer a different switch. There is very little force involved so it wont bust loose in normal use and it can be placed in a way that has the corner rest against the frame if you so choose. though it is close to over camming if you do that. I put super glue on the back of the switch, placed it and aligned it, then rotated the mech clear and just let the glue set. The flat of the mech ring will limit rotation in one direction, while the 'ear' hits the glue point semi circle on the frame preventing excess movement in the other direction.

How far the LED protrudes into the fitting enclosure can totally change how it looks. Slightly recessed looks better in my opinion, but thats only really an option if you are fitting a naked LED. The cake light route needs to go in further so that the ball shape of the unit will not stand proud of the case and hit the wall, something that would stop the unit sitting fully flush with the wall.

Test fit the silver surround, if you are happy, glue them in place. I added a little wiggle room to the tolerances of the groove so make sure things are fully central when you fix them in place.

Align and glue the nameplate surround. I added a bit of printed label in the appropriate colour for the hal segment at this point. Finally glue the individual letters of the HAL 9000 text in place. Tweezers come in handy here. You need very little glue to hold them, so to avoid any visible glue after fitting I was putting a blob on a piece of card and using a cotton swab to smear it near flat, tapping the letter against it then wiping it off with a clean cotton bud before applying to the surface. Each letter stuck near immediately even with almost no glue visible on the letter, so accuracy matters. I added a text location print, it temporarily sits in the frame and gives you a better chance to keeping things looking right. Alternatively there are hal nameplates that are less of a faff to do so you could just add one of theirs, but I personally preferred my method for the aesthetics and it looks better than most of the more solid variants I have seen others use.

Finally, hang it up and turn it on. Then when you are feeling all smug about how well it turned out, come back here and tell me how it went. I could do with a pat on the back after all this.

Link to button

https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/massive-arcade-button-with-led-100mm-red?variant=8310528641¤cy=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping&msclkid=bf7d8c0bfa8c154a3f6eec5a8b0016b6

link to alternate light source cakelights (I went with red but white should work fine too)

https://cakecraftcity.com/collections/cake-lights/products/red-mini-led-battery-operated-no-wires-lights-pack-of-5-perfect-for-cake-lights-illumination

Category: Props