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xtool honeycomb corner alignment and risers — image 1
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xtool honeycomb corner alignment and risers

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€8.42 – €10.29 net (excluding VAT)

For file: honeycomb-Riser_Block v1_0.15mm_PLA_MK3S_10h22m.gcode

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Weight reported by the author
96 g
Print time reported by the author
10.36 hr
Source material
PLA
Estimate material
PLA
Estimate printer
Bambu Lab P1S - 0.4 nozzle
Estimate process
0.20mm Standard

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there are two pieces that work together here. corners and blocks. print extra blocks as needed.

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Model information

Category
Tools
License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike

I took the xtool honeycomb riser by cbabbman and increased the thickness and size so that it would have a better hold on the honeycomb panel and also slightly increased the gap between the honeycomb and the stainless plate and increased the hold it has on the stainless plate as well.  Then for the stacking block on the bottom of it i made it into a 2" by 2" block to provide for better stability.    I had to use a rubber mallet to tap the corners into position on the frame and plate.  They fit tight and do not come off easily and also help to hold the honeycomb frame in a more rigid squared position.   The tolerances are fairly tight on everything so they push together with minimal effort and they stay together unless significantly bumped.  Then the 2nd piece is a new piece that is a new custom creation that is additional 2" by 2" by 1" stackable blocks to raise and lower the honeycomb panel because I find it easier to raise and lower the honeycomb and leave my D1 in the highest position in my enclosure so that I don't have to deal with recabling anything.  I just open the front panel of my enclosure and adjust the height of the honeycomb as needed and don't have to adjust the height of the D1 itself or remove the D1 from the enclosure to adjust the rear feet.  The blocks are very easy to insert even for the rear feet of the honeycomb panel without having to remove the D1.  just lift the front edge of the honeycomb panel and reach under it lift the corner you want to adjust and insert or remove a block as needed.  repeat in other rear corner and then make front corners match.  I just use a 1" wide metal straight edge that is long enough to span the distance between the two front legs of the D1 frame to allow me to pull my honeycomb blocks(legs) against that straight edge to make certain my honecomb panel is always squared with the D1 frame. 

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