USB-C powered Estes Electron Beam Controller

I really like the simplicity of the Estes Electron Beam controller but I HATE getting to the launch site only to have my whole day ruined by flat batteries. Introducing the USB-C powered Proton Beam Launch Controller! 

This launch controller uses the guts of an Estes Electron Beam controller, a few dollars worth of parts and some soldering to make the launch controller USB-C powered! It delivers 9v at 2amp with a USB-PD capable battery bank and reliably launches your rockets with no question about how charged your AAs are. 

Here is a list of the items used to make the controller:

• Estes Electron Beam Launch Controller - https://estesrockets.com/products/electron-beam-launch-controller
• USB-C Power board (be sure to buy the 9v) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NFR5G4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
• USB-C battery bank (this is the one I like but any USB-C battery bank with PD that can deliver 9v at 2amp will work) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XW7ZVKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
• LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G4X5WBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Some extra wire
• Hot glue
• Soldering suplies 
• Extra screws

To make this controller work, follow these steps:

• Remove all the pieces of the Electron Beam controller. This should include
  • bottom metal plate
  • top metal plate
  • wire with small metal plate attached and screw (cut the other end that is attached to the battery spring)
  • launch button
  • small plastic spacer ring and screw
  • light bulb
• Solder the  2 ends of the LED to the corresponding + and - holes on the USB-C board. These will only work 1 way so I suggest testing it before soldering. 
• In the other set of holes, solder one end (doesn't matter which) to the free end of the long launch wire you got from the original Electron Beam controller. 
• Solder the other end to a similarly sized short piece of wire. 
• Solder the other end of the short piece of wire to the top metal plate. This will originally have been connected to the other side of the battery compartment. 
• Place the USB-C board in place, USB-C connector facing up and hot glue in place
• Install the launch button on twist the light bulb into place
• Place the bottom piece of metal into the same spot it was in the original controller
• Slide the small plastic spacer ring over the center post, the same way it was in the original controller 
• Place the top metal piece into the same spot it was in the original controller. 
• Use the original screw to sandwich these all together but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. This should be finger tight a MOST otherwise the post will break and you'll need to re-print the whole thing. 
• Install the short piece of metal attached to the wire leads using the screw into the same spot it was in the original controller
• Run the wires through the slots and tie them in a knot close to the exit slot. Put some hot glue around them to keep them from rubbing on the plastic. 
• install the top plate using 2 extra screws that fit (I found 3mm works well but really anything slightly bigger than the holes should do fine. Again, don't over tighten these as the posts are prone to breaking. If you DO end up breaking/striping them just super glue it together. 

Once everything is together, plug in a USB-C cable and test it out!

I hope somebody else tries this, I found it to be a very fun project and it's honestly my go-to launch controller now since I'm never worried about the state of charge of the AAs in my controller. 

One slight quirk/feature. The little board doesn't draw enough power to keep the power bank from going into sleep mode. This means the controller will only stay powered on for about 20 seconds from the time you turn it on. This is actually a great safety feature since it means the controller isn't powered on while you are wiring up your igniters!   

Printing tips: 

• I printed this out of PLA and that seems to be fine but if you plan on doing a lot of launches, especially in hot summer heat you may want to consider PETG or something else UV resistant. 
• Print this with the top down and use supports. I was able to get a very clean top using the X1 Carbon. I did use PLA and PLA support material with the AMS but I imagine even just generating supports will work fine. 
• If you want to avoid supports, you can split the file to cut off the raised parts. It wont look quite as cool but you can avoid support materials this way. I may upload a second file with this if somebody asks for it.