v400 dragon-berd plate

Page under-constuction Inital release further minor changes/requests could be possible.

Will be supported on aio configs in the short future.

Update:

Added spacer or haldis duct, or possible resizing for screw lengths.

Find a bag of screws like this m2.5 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075RCTN6F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Recommended material absolute minimum" petg it'll work

Ideal material pa6cf/12 , abs namely we want to avoid deformed plates due to power outages or similar scenarios that would require a new plate if the hotend isn't cooled before powering off.

6-8 walls

2mm tops / bottoms

35-45 percent infill gyroid or, cubic

line with 0.4 - 0.5

layer height 1.5mm -2.5mm or, adaptive layers

Possible configurations , bowden , flying or even direct with hevort or similar Jhead mounting extruders (anything SUPER light) otherwise im not sure what the benefit would be outside of using a high end hotend)

Supported couplers M6 bowden couplers Note you must find the though hole type, hotends like the rapido require the tube to pass though the coupler,

Most dragons come with a e3d/jhead adapter this will work as well and, would be used for a direct drive mount.

Currently required.

berd air pump / tube / tubes

ez board,

Kossel type membrane probe (nozzle direct type) TriangleLabs also carrys them.

Namely this avoids issues with tilt related tramming problems. or, probing reliable wrong as kevin puts it regarding the stock probe type... Due to square issues / semi bent probes or other related micro alignment issues.

Disclaimer on "pads without vanilla klipper aka "official" a highly doubt tramming will work due to it being disabled. The coding changes hinge on a factory perfect machine to work id expect any deviations from stock to become problematic or maybe not.

Fans currently only the berd-air pumps

Later a dual 4010 setup

Theoretical generic defaults

8000-10000k

scv -15-30-60 ish Note: some materials like petg may need a bit less.

Results will very etc. id start by just increasing scv and, finding a good general value this will be the max speed on outer walls "without' input shaper(compensation features) once a ideal printer specific range is found then apply input shaper / whatever slicer settings like higher speeds on internal things ghosting wouldn't matter on.. Tip high uniform speed values should work before needing to offset internal things.

Category: 3D Printing