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Neptune 4 Plus / Max -  3x 5015 fan Printhead - Threaded Inserts V2 — image 1
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Neptune 4 Plus / Max - 3x 5015 fan Printhead - Threaded Inserts V2

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A remix of HalfManBear's / OrzOrzOrz's / PapaSchlumpf's / Nikzda's fan shroud.

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Updated at source:

Model information

License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

(edit 20.03.23): updated version V2 available: 

  • fixes the shallow (top left) heatbreak insert.
  • improved notches to allow the heatbreak fan to be inserted easily. 
  • set the heatbreak posts to be parallel at 15mm depth (wasn't on original)

 

Features:

  • M3 threaded Inserts (ADXL spacing 15mm)
  • Improved the heatbreak duct curvature for better airflow.
  • Improved heat-break fan fitment + fan alignment (new).
  • Improved LED PCB clearance/fitment 
  • Reinforced mounting lugs
  • Hex Key access channels (shroud can be unscrewed without removing the two side fans)
  • Improved Nozzle duct overhangs
  • Only 45g heavier than stock (even less with aluminium bolts)

Fixings Required (Recommend Aluminium bolts for weight saving):

  • 11x M3 Brass Threaded Inserts (M3 4.3X3-4mm + Soldering Iron)
  • 6x M3x20 machine screws (for mounting the 5015 fans)
  • 4x M3x5 machine screws, x6/x8 will also work (for mounting the LED PCB & ADXL mount)

Required but Included with Elegoo Printhead: 

  • 4x M2 screws for mounting the extruder to the print (2x on each side)
  • 1x M3 Bed Probe Screw
  • 2x M3x8 external shroud mounting screws (1x each side)
  • 3x Rear printhead mounting screws.

Printed with:

  • 2 walls
  • 10% cubic infill
  • PLA
  • OrcaSlicer Manual Tree Support as instructed by OrzOrzOrz's original.
     

Heat-break Fan Settings (Reduced PWM noise);

fan_speed: 0.40

cycle_time: 0.00004

#(cycle time = 25000Hz above human hearing range)

Wiring Notes:

Like OrzOrzOrz, I had to reverse the polarity for the left-most fan header for the heat-break fan. The PCB denotes a (+) where it is actually (-) here.

UPDATE: on the rev. 2.2.00 of the extruder board the markings seems to be accurate, so you dont have to reverse the polarity of the fan. But please check it anyways.