PrusaXL Modular Drybox (PolyDryer compatible)

This is a work in progress.

This is a filament drybox that is designed to hold a spool of filament until the spool is deplete. Store the filament in the drybox, mount it onto the printer in the drybox, dry it (using the PolyDryer) in the drybox.

 It mounts onto the PrusaXL by replacing the original spool mount with a custom one (which will still hold normal spools). It uses approximately .5kg of filament to print, and the box sides can be chosen a-la-carte.

The source Fusion360 wall is provided so others can design alternative walls to suit other hygrometers, acrylic windows, desiccant boxes, etc.

One of the walls provided is PolyDryer compatible (see photo)

It's also designed to require minimal additional components. It has no weather sealing, and seals with pressure or screws, if desired.

Print:

• Side (2)
• Axle (1)
• Spool Mount (1)
• Desiccant Box (2) – Turn off supports.
• Desiccant Box Cap (2)
• walls of your choice (4) – May need supports.

You'll need:

• M3x12 (or longer) (min. 4) 
• M3 nuts (min. 4) 
• PC4-M10 (min 1) e.g., https://www.amazon.com/Witbot-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Long-Distance/dp/B01KHN1HWY

You may want:

• Hygrometer (Square or round, depending on the walls chosen), e.g, https://www.amazon.com/Veanic-Hygrometer-Thermometer-Temperature-Humidifiers/dp/B07FCPJRFH/ or https://www.amazon.com/Vaikby-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Temperature-Fahrenheit/dp/B0D3TGCT8P
• Acrylic cards (1+, Depending on the walls chosen) e.g., https://www.amazon.com/KAITELA-Acrylic-Rectangle-Personalized-Seating/dp/B095CN7H6Y/

Instructions:

First, determine which walls you're going to use. 

I recommend printing in PETG. Enable supports for everything except the desiccant box.

For the front, if you have hygrometers and/or acrylic plates, pick accordingly. I like to see in as much as possible and so am now printing a front wall that has 2 windows and a small squarish hygrometer. After you print, glue in your windows and/or hygrometer.

For the bottom, if you are going to use the PolyDryer, print the relevant wall (and couple of hatches to close it). Otherwise just use a solid wall.

For the back and top, it depends on whether you have a specific filament direction you need or whether you just want flexibility.

If you want the filament to come out the back, use the …PTFE. If you want the filament to come out the top, use …PTFE_top. I like having the option so I print both, and cap the one I don't use. Print a PTFE_cap, if you need one. Screw in the PC4-M10. It's a tight fit so you'll want to use the wrench that came with the XL.

Print one or two of the desiccant boxes and caps. Fill the box/es with desiccant and screw in the cap (the prusa XL wrench is again a good tool here)

Print one axle.

Print two sides.

Print one spool holder. The spool holder replaces the one that came with the printer, using the same mounting hardware. Just unscrew the Prusa one and screw in the new one.

Now that you've printed your bits, grab a short M3 bolt, like an 8mm, and use it to pull M3 nuts into their slots in the wall. 2 in each wall.

Lay the side down flat on the table, and slot the walls into place. Lift a bit and screw the walls in from the bottom using 12m (or larger) M3 bolts.

Insert the axle. You can glue it in place, or not.

Insert your filament spool. Feed the filament through the PC4.

Insert the desiccant boxes. They fit next to each corner. Pick a corner or two that is not blocked by a wall feature.

Close the box. You can press-fit, or use a bolt or two to seal it tightly.

Mount, add an optional PTFE tube, and print away.

A typical build is:

• front: Wall with hygrometer and acrylic window/s
• top: Wall with PC4-M10 and window (or solid wall)
• back: Wall with PC4-M10 (or solid wall)
• bottom: PolyDryer wall, or solid wall