1 / 1
Dummy 13  900% — image 1

Dummy 13 900%

Order a print of this model

We calculate the final price from your selected file. You review and accept it before payment.

Saved on this device.

hi! this is a personal 900% revisitation of soozafone's dummy 13, with these modifications he is 1.20 meters tall!

Rating
0 / 5
Likes
253
Downloads
920
Makes
0
Views
13,600
Reviews
0

Updated at source:

Model information

License
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

hello, this is my personal interpretation of a 900% remodeled dummy 13.
taking inspiration from @Depep1 with his 600% version I asked myself: but how much bigger can I make it?

so I got to work to make this remix:
this version has in the spherical gods some semi spheres bolted together to facilitate assembly, and a modification of the "E" joints between the limbs.

includes both male and female versions

 

I used screws and nuts:

 

  • 24 M8x50 conical head screws (total size)
  • 2 M8x42 conical head screws (I had to cut them)
  • 24 M8 nuts
  • 2 M8 threaded rivets
  • 1 M6x40 conical head screw (total size)
  • 1 M6 nut

as tools:

  • various keys based on the seat in the head of the screws you get
  • large flat screwdriver
  • your dear friend the hammer may be useful :)

 

ASSEMBLE:

 

I left a 3mf file with all the files already positioned and pre-supported on the plates of the respective pieces of the frame divided by materials, I printed the hemispheres, the "E" the respective cones with a thickness washer and the plates of the arm-shoulder and leg-pelvis joints in Nylon (orange) to prevent wear from rubbing, instead I made all the joints in contact with the nylon in ABS (yellow) (torso, abdomen, shoulders, shoulder-arm and leg-pelvis joints), the part of the groin was retouched to make it in one piece (so the legs cannot tilt) and printed in PETG (blue) due to the orientation given the greater adhesion to the layers, the rest I made in PLA (black).

 

ARMS AND LEGS:

to assemble it you have to slide the carved version of the sphere inside the two pre-positioned hemispheres in the joint seat, to do this in the folders there is a small gadget called "tool", this is used to hold the hemispheres in position.
you insert it as if it were a pen/screwdriver between the two hemispheres.

*REMEMBER TO FIRST PUT THE NUT IN THE HEMISPHERE WITH THE APPROPRIATE SEAT*

assemble the shoulder-arm and leg-pelvis joint armor piece on the respective pieces first, so as not to struggle later, since the joints are separated by the plate that must be inserted inside the leg/arm

*a nut must be placed in the plate before inserting it into the arm/leg

 

to connect the upper arm and lower arm / upper leg and lower leg pieces you will find cones that are nothing more than the old joints cut off from the respective models, they must be positioned on the "E" joints with the washer in the center, which is nothing more than a spacer (cone-washer-cone).
the "E" joints must be assembled together with the armor, I modified it on purpose so that it is possible to assemble everything without having to make great efforts since I made the holes to be able to pass the screws and bolt everything

*on the upper arm you will find a modified cone that has a larger hole, this is used to insert the threaded rivet that fits together.

 

CHEST:

to insert the chest frame inside the torso frame you must first install the shoulder joints, they have been filed specifically to allow you to "slide" everything laterally inside the torso without having to force the adhesion of the layers.
you have to slide everything at the height of the small "cylinders" and then slide upwards, once done you can put the piece of armor called "armor-chest-lower-v25".

once this is done you can insert the neck.

to connect the abdomen to the chest you will notice that the latter has been slotted to allow you to insert the screw without making great efforts even with all the armor mounted

 

ARMOR crotch and waist : 

 

due to the large size I noticed that the waist and groin armor were having trouble connecting easily to each other, so I slightly rounded off the groin armor and used the square hole on the waist (the one to insert the stand) to make a sort of pin that would hold them in place, the M6 nut must be placed in the groin armor before putting on the last leg, then once everything is assembled, fix the pin with the M6 screw, you will notice that the pin has a different height on one side, that must be placed upwards.

 

conclusions:

 

I hope you can have fun as the undersigned in this great project, I leave you both the male and female version of the armor and the frame.
remember that if you have to make changes to the models you have to divide the measurements by 9.
example: you have to add an M10 nut, do 10/9 and you will get the measurement you need once you have brought it back to 900% in your slicing program.

If you have any questions or concerns please do not hesitate to ask.

 

 

 

 

Tags