Wall-E 3D Model (WIP)

This is my stl file set of a Wall-E model I made for my son. Included so far:

1. Head
2. Neck
3. Main body
4. Right arm (mirror parts for left)
5. Front door
6. Left wheel/leg structure (mirror for right side)

I also used some aluminum pipe, steel pins, and a threaded bar for this build.

All the hex screws are spares from Prusa printer builds.

Extra parts required:

Most of the screws used are all the M3 hex screws spare from my Prusa printer assembly

A. Head

• 28mm long 6mm steel pin to connect the eye/nose construction to the neck
• 6mm threaded steel bar with a nut on either end

Screws (eyes and connector):

• M3 * 6mm x 4 pieces
• M3 * 8mm x 8 pieces
• M3 * 12mm x 1 piece (right eye)
• M3 * 16mm x 1 piece (left eye)
• M3 * 25mm x 4 pieces

B. Lens

I've used 2 sets of lens for my build. One glued to the “iris” and another to the outside. Dimensions (Plano-convex Condenser Lens Focal Length Optical Glass):

• Size (D*H): φ28mm * 6mm
• Size (D*H):  φ40mm * 9mm 

I purchased mine here

C. Neck Screws

• M5 x 16r screw (2x)
• M3 x 30mm + hex nut

There's also space for a grub screw near the base of the neck but I haven't had any need to use one.

D. Main Body

Before attaching the head construction, prep the main body frame.

Main Body Frame

• M3 x 25mm (4x)
• Superglue

Top cover - attached to neck assembly

• M3 x 12mm (4x)

E. Arm (one side)

• 2.5mm x 27mm (3x) - fingers
• M3 x 10mm (2x) - secure the sides of hand
• 10mm x 60mm aluminium pipe - hand
• M3 x 25mm - secure shoulder to arm
• 8mm x 60mm aluminium pipe - shoulder
• 4mm grub screw (3x) - shoulder joint
• M3 x 10mm (2x) - secure 2 posts that hold the arm in place
• M5 x 16r screw - fix the hand to the arm

Mirror the arm parts to make the other side.

F. Front Panel Assembly

• M3 x 6mm (2x)
• M3 x 12mm
• M3 x 18mm (2x) - fix the panel to the front

G. Neck to main body top Panel

• M3 x 12mm (4x)

H. Back door

• M3 x 25mm (2x) - secure back door handle
• 5mm x 25mm (4x) - hold back door trimmings to back door
• 5mm x 150mm - secure back door to main top panel
• M3 x 12mm (6x) - secure sides to the top
• M3 x 18mm (6x) - secure top panel to sides

I. Front Door

• 5mm cubic ferris magnet (4x)
• 8mm x 178mm aluminium pipe
• M3 x 10mm (4x) - secure bottom trimmings to base

J. Wheels

• M3 x 10mm (8x) - to lock the wheels
• 10mm pipe x 116mm - bottom long shaft
• 10mm pipe x 70mm - top long shaft
• 10mm pipe x 56mm (2x) - axils used for the top guides
• 10mm pipe x 64.00 mm - axil - bottom guide front
• 10mm pipe x 61.00 mm - axil - bottom guide back
• 5mm x 55 mm steel pin - holds the bottom in place
• 5mm x 25.40 mm steel pin - holds the top in place
• 8mm x 19mm pipe
• 5mm x 24mm - used to secure the leg assembly to the base

Wheel tracks - print 29 or 30 per side

I used thick copper wire or paperclips to connect the tracks together

• M3 x 25mm (8x) - secure the wheel assembly (left and right) to the base
• M3 x nuts (8x)

K. Electronics

The electronics runs on a Rasberry Pi Zero 2W (with headers). Its connected to a mono speaker that has a class D amp and a single switch connected to the red button in front.

• 1.8" TFT Display Breakout and Shield
• Raspberry Pi Zero 2W with Header
• Adafruit STEMMA Speaker
• EYESPI breakout board
• EYESPI Cable
• SPDT 125V 3A Sub-Miniature Micro Switch with Lever
• 150mm Socket to Socket Jumper Leads

Display wiring:

• Pi 3V to breakout VIN (red wire)
• Pi GND to breakout GND (black wire)
• Pi SLCK (GPIO 11) to breakout SCK (blue wire)
• Pi MISO (GPIO 9) to breakout MISO (green wire)
• Pi MOSI (GPIO 10) to breakout MOSI (yellow wire)
• Pi CE0 (GPIO 8) to breakout TCS (purple wire)
• Pi GPIO 25 to breakout DC (white wire)
• Pi GPIO 24 to breakout RST (pink wire)

Switch Wiring:

• Pi GND (use the one opposite GPIO 27)
• Pi GPIO 27

Speaker wiring:

• Pi 3.3 V
• Pi GND
• Pi GPIO 18

Steps to program Pi to follow!