Caliburn 4 K14 Conversion

I wanted to make my Caliburn 4 use K14 springs but could not find an existing design suited to my purpose. Therefore, I made my own that I think will overall work better for the general population. 

Benefits of this design:

• -No additional hardware: It reuses all of the same nuts, bolts, and screws.
• -No gluing or extra assembly: The parts simply replace the existing ones.
• -No supports are necessary. 
• -Modular and easily replaceable: These pieces can be quickly swapped out in less than a minute in the case of breaking or simply a change of preference. 
• -K14 and K26 compatible: Both springs can be used interchangeably (or together, not recommended), 

-Drop-in: There are no additional parts needed, just the ones being replaced, and to my knowledge, it is compatible with all other mods for this blaster. 

For anyone wondering, this is the K14 spring I use: OOD K14 2.7 x 280mm Spring with Squared Ends – Out of Darts. With an 18-inch x .509 ID barrel, I was chronographing just above 300 FPS with Worker Gen3+. I would highly recommend using a more ideal barrel that is longer and tighter. Kuryaka or brass barrels are the best for this. 

Use this mod with your own discretion, the K14 is an unimaginably powerful spring, and this mod reduces material overall, due to the design limitations. Other parts in your blaster, assuming they are printed correctly and are in good condition, should not break. However, I am not responsible for if something goes wrong other than my designs. Most importantly: Think carefully before you pull the trigger when aiming at objects--or living beings. 

Print everything at whatever you think would be best for a high-stress application. For me, I printed 4PlungerE2 and The Spring Guide components at 5 walls and tops and bottoms and 25-30% infill. For 4BackB: 3 walls, 5 top and bottom layers, and 15% infill. If that does not sound like enough, absolutely use more. This seems to work for me. It is also recommended that the plunger be printed at a 30-degree angle to remove layer separation due to stress. This might mean some supports will be necessary, however, the piece will become practically indestructible (I have used a k14 simultaneous with a k26 with no signs of wear on the piece). 

Please let me know if there is anything that can be improved or corrected. I am very open to feedback and would like to make the best quality parts!