Ikea TERTIAL replacement parts (and stonger)
I lost the original ones while moving out so I tried printing them. I also modeled stronger bases depending on the orientation you want to place the lamp.
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I lost the original ones while moving out so I tried printing them. I also modeled stronger bases depending on the orientation you want to place the lamp.
This a damper for a NEMA 17 or any motor that has the same dimensions, in order for it to work you will have to print 2 and put 1 on each side of the motor support. It is not as effective as some you could buy but it is a quick and rather…
BERGEON 6938 dial protector
Split in half mora for an easier printing experience, the face on the bed wouldn't look good on a FDM printer.
The thread spool was too big to fit on the machine so I designed a part that would make it fit. I had to file down the hole a little bit.
The tray made by Lerslens is now lockable. I added TPU cutouts to put at the bottom of the tray.
I had to sand a round resin gem and designed this to make it easy and fast. To mount it on a drill you will need a screw (long enough to get it firmly stuck in the drill jaws), a washer, a nut, and double-sided tap. You can scale it to…
Mic arms are too expensive so I just hung it on a 10e ikea work lamp. The lamp is the TERTIAL one, since the mic is too light I had to get rid of a spring on the arm. The lamp has to be disconnected. The part has to be printed twice (TPU…
I tried my best at making a model of a chopstick holder I made in pottery class a while ago. Pretty much everything can be used as a chopstick holder but I had in mind and tried to make a very specific look I once saw somewhere. It is…
With my printer, laser engraver, other hobbies, and a lack of proper ventilation I made an air purifier with what I had on hand. The air filter is an 11cm in diameter HEPA filter from Ribimex, it is available in hardware stores in my…
I made this model to fix a Somfy vibration sensor with more stability than with the provided two-sided tape.
To increase clearance between the bottom of the frame and the floor
To increase clearance between the bottom of the frame and the floor
I needed a spacer to correctly set the distance between the laser head and the wood. This solution isn't the best as the dimensional accuracy could be better. I consider it a temporary solution but it does the job.
I made 2 interface pieces to fit THIS drag chain on Z122 Dagoma printer mods.
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