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The parts were modeled from a beat up Star Wars Racer cartridge using trusty rusty calipers. Different from original in these ways: There are M2 nuts and screws for the PCB and shielding. Use 2 standard M2 nuts and 2 M2 x 10mm screws…
This modification shows hexadecimal digits 0-F on the mechanical 7 segment display created by YouTuber @Engineezy . This a display code change and does not include the segments, followers, or frame. The cams were redesigned with 16 bits…
These tools are designed to help in assembling the Rook 3D printer by @rolohaun . The bearings need to have shims on the outside and they are small and difficult for me to position. The fork can hold a shim in place while tightening the…
I printed Kanrog's frame, and when I got my bed spring kit, the M4 bolts were flathead, not hex head. Another “wait, what's standard?!” moment! I remixed the frame with countersunk holes to keep the heads below the flat mating surface,…
This is a replacement bottom edge guard for an Ortlieb pannier. Mine broke after I didn't clip my pannier to my rack properly, overloaded it, and it got caught in the rear wheel. The broken original part is shown in the last photo. It has…
This is a lid for a wide-mouth Mason jar. It does not screw on, but sits on top and can slide a small amount to the side to create a crescent-shaped opening for shaking out the contents. The bottom side of the lid can be used as a…
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