Minimalist Systainer Dock with Jig
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A screw-on pair of cleats to properly align and store a systainer (Tanos, Festool, Makita, etc.) on a shelf. And a jig.
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- Printables
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- Tools
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- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — NoDerivatives
<edit: this is a version 2 with more rigidity in the jig and centerline>
Systainers are expensive enough, but they're damn practical. I won't invest the time and money needed to have systainer drawers and ports all around the garage, so I decided to settle for cheap-ish shelves.
I was annoyed, though, with how the systainers would sometimes hit the brackets or end up askew. So I designed this very simple system where two cleats with a bevel gently guide the systainer to its desired location. They allow to pull the systainer from its storage position without having to lift, and they allow to tilt the systainers.
I also included a mouting jig that fits on a 256x256 heatbed with a 45° rotation. Locate the center of the shelf, draw the centerline, lay down the jig perpendicular to the centerline and the align the notch with the centerline (see picture of how to position the jig).
You can also use the optional printed 215mm centerline tool, in which case you just have to locate the center of the shelf front and voilà. The centerline can be printed inside the hollow rectangle of the rotated jig.
If you want the recessed part of the systainer to sit flush with the shelf front, measure 215mm from the front of the shelf to the front of the jig (see picture where the systainers on the middle row are docked with this system). That way you can also add a latch such as this one : https://www.printables.com/model/215785-festool-systainer-sortainer-lock/comments if you want to secure a T-lock systainer. If you want the front of the systainer to sit flush with the front of the shelf, add 12 mm.
Mouting tips :
- I like to spray a bit of repositionable adhesive (3M 75 or the like) on the bottom of the cleats so they stay in place when placing the screws.
- I found that driving the back screw in first, without tightening, then the inner one, then tigthening the back screw works best and makes sure the cleat won't rotate.
- Two screws (back and inner) should be sufficient, but three won't hurt.
- They are designed with 4mm wood screws in mind, but 3.5 mm screws work as well. Chose a screw length that's compatible with the shelf thickness.
Printing tips :
PLA works fine. I recommend at least 25% infill with at least 4 walls for the cleats.There is a .3mf with 100% infill modifiers around the screw holes.