Worker Dominator Short Dart Double Stack Kit (mick stick)

Pusher

Print either with the face of the pusher on the plate (vertical), or with the bottom of the body down (horizontal), with supports. I printed body-down since I wasn't confident printing it vertically, and deburred/chamferred the crap out of it.
Pay special attention to the rear little nub that the extension spring attaches to - depending on your support settings/print quality, you may have to carefully go in with a pick/knife/etc to clean it up. On some of mine, I also had to shave back the body area right behind the nub (like, closer towards the front of the pusher) to make more room to sneak the extension spring in and attach it.

The track in the middle also should be as smooth as possible. I recommend dry lube if you have it, but I haven't gotten to try that myself yet. The end of the track closest to the front seems to have a tendency to develop a "divot" that can catch slightly and make the trigger pull worse, based on my print settings - works, but annoying.

Lastly: The extension spring's rear end should not attach to the normal peg - you need to pull it further back and put it over the screw post in the N-strike stock point on the back. It needs max tension to make sure it doesn't catch if it drags against the second column of darts when the trigger is resetting.

Magwell

Print with supports. When removing the supports, be very gentle - the top/front parts of the sidewalls are veeeeery thin. 

Release/BAD Lever

Print with supports; install a dart head (I've used elites and waffles, anything that squishes a bit). If the dart head won't fit, just ream out the hole slightly with a knife/etc.
Pivot 1 and 2

Print the smaller pivot with the long flat side on the plate (so the little "nub" is jutting out to the side); clean up the nub if it prints ugly.

Print the larger pivot tilted to the side so its angled face is flat on the build plate (so the "tube" is sticking up at an angle).

For assembly: Put the long pivot through the hole in the mag catch/release, and cut off the excess as close to flush as possible with the release itself.

You DO NOT need both the Release and the BAD lever - the BAD lever just lets you release mags more easily. They functionally do the same thing, the lever's just bigger/uglier/more practical.

Pins

No notes.

For assembly: Put the assembled mag release+pivots into the magwell, making sure the actual nub that catches the mag is going into the topmost slot. The Slots on the outside of the pivots should match up with the middle diamonds on the magwell when you look through (if you put the catch in the correct slot, it'll happen naturally). Put a dab of superglue/epoxy into the diamond hole (enough to also get it into the pivot inside), then press the pin in. Making sure it doesn't fall out, do the same thing on the other side (you may have to fiddle with it slightly to get the spacing correct). Once they're both in, clamp it (or idk, use a couple of hard books or just hold it for a while) until it's set.

Mag Body

Print with supports. If needed during assembly, chamfer the bottom edge if baseplates are too hard to go on naturally.

Mag Baseplate

If the bottom prints with sharp edges on the exterior/bottom, chamfer. Press fit; I don't bother putting screws in for mine, but you can if you want to.

Follower

Print without supports. Chamfer the F*CK out of the outside bottom edges, as necessary - should slide easily in the mag body but not be so loose that it'll tilt over on itself.
Assembly: Insert a drum spring into the top hole on a mag. Tie a piece of cord/etc through the inserted drum spring; pull it down out the bottom of the mag (being careful not to let the drum spring twist), and then hold the follower (making sure to have the channel for the spring on the correct side) in place. Untie the cord, making sure the coiled spring slots into the bottom of the follower. I put my finger down the mag body to prevent it from smacking when you let it go, but I've never had a follower/mag break when I've accidentally let them shoot to the top, either (but they can dislodge themselves from the drum spring, which sucks if that happens, so try to do it gently).

Cage

You can probably use any wide-mouth cage, now that the magwell has better feed ramps, but the Dominator's screw posts aren't exactly the same as a Stryfe; if you're looking at the open blaster, I had to cut down the shell screwpost on the bottom-right to get my cage to fit. It looks like if you're using a normal stryfe cage, that post juts too far into the body of the cage and would rub on the flywheels/cause a problem.

Muzzle Cap

Mine sucks but I'll make it better eventually - if you want to cut down the front end if you're only doing a single stage, it just attaches in two pieces on the top and bottom rails. Feel free to remix any of this lol.

End Cap

Remixed, don't have the link but will add when I find it. Just a cap with a sling mount, sized to be flush with the Dominator body.

Warp Saya Grip

Uses normal Saya fronts/backs. Weave as usual.