BOXY: Rook MK1's simplest toolhead with CPAP
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Small and simple toolhead for the Rook MK1. It holds a probe, a bambulab hotend, travels 110x110 mm and runs CPAP.
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- Creative Commons — Public Domain
Meet B.O.X.Y. short for Barely Overdesigned X-axis Yielder.

I love my Rook MK1 so much, but Rookery (albeit beautiful) won't hold an ABL probe and Sentinel is way too large. So I designed this toolhead from scratch.
It's easy too print, just hit auto on everything and activate supports. Voron printing specs are enough, but I do 5 perimeters and 40% infill on everything.
It's really light and rigid.
Parts fits snug.
It travels 110 mm on both x and y-axis just fine.
There are little slots to hold stuff in-place with small zip-ties such as cables and the cpap tube.
It's short on the z-axis and holds a Bambulab hotend clone.
Part cooling solution is a simple small CPAP composed of 5015 fans and a fish-tank 8.5 x 6 mm silicone tube.
You'll have to print one of each STL: base, lid, case, duct, cpap mount and cpap duct.
Also, there are a few add-ons: a small shim for the 2510 hotend fan and a Fysetc PIS mount for input shaper calculations (which are great).
It's designed for common voron M3 heatinserts and M3 bolts. To hold the hotend you'll need M3 screws and nuts.
M2.5 bolts are needed only for the 2510 fan mount on the hotend heatsink (that's on Bambu, not me).
Also notice the lid friction-fits onto the case but I've added a small M3 hole on the top if you need that extra security. I've printed a bunch already and the lid just didn't go anywhere.
A quick and dirty simplified BOM (not affiliated):
- Bambulab clone v2 hotend;
- HGX-lite extruder (sherpa-mini mount);
- GX-H8A Simple ABL probe;
- 2510 hotend fan;
- 5015 fan for the cpap;
- Silicone fishtank tube 8.5 x 6 mm (outer diameter x inner diameter);
- M3 (OD 5 mm, length 4 mm) heatinserts;
- M3 bolts for the entire assembly (7x 6mm, 2x 16mm, 2x 10mm);
- M2.5 bolts for the 2510 hotend fan (2x 16mm);
- M3 nuts for the hotend (2x).
For the best possible CPAP cooling try compounding a couple of 5015 fans with this cool project by Simonp1080.
Klipper:
You'll need to change a few things in Klipper so here are my snippets from printer.cfg (SKR Pico pins):
[stepper_x]
step_pin: gpio11
dir_pin: gpio10
enable_pin: !gpio12
microsteps: 64
rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop
homing_retract_dist: 0
position_endstop: 110
position_max: 110
homing_speed: 40[stepper_y]
step_pin: gpio6
dir_pin: gpio5
enable_pin: !gpio7
microsteps: 64
rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_y:virtual_endstop
homing_retract_dist: 0
position_endstop: 110
position_max: 110
position_min: 0
homing_speed: 40[stepper_z]
step_pin: gpio19
dir_pin: gpio28
enable_pin: !gpio2
microsteps: 64
rotation_distance: 40
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
homing_retract_dist: 8
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop #^gpio25
#position_endstop: 213
position_max: 210.0
position_min: -5
homing_speed: 30
second_homing_speed: 5
homing_retract_dist: 10
homing_retract_speed: 10[probe]
pin: ^!gpio22
x_offset: -19.5
y_offset: 3
#z_offset: 1.5
speed: 5.0
samples: 3
sample_retract_dist: 2
lift_speed: 5.0
samples_result: average
samples_tolerance: 0.0150
samples_tolerance_retries: 5[bed_mesh]
speed: 120
horizontal_move_z: 5
mesh_min: 0, 4
mesh_max: 90, 112
probe_count: 4, 4[bed_screws]
screw1: 75, 4
screw1_name: middle front screw
screw2: 40, 110
screw2_name: rear left screw
screw3: 110, 110
screw3_name: rear right screw
[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 75, 4
screw1_name: middle font screw
screw2: 40, 110
screw2_name: rear left screw
screw3: 110, 110
screw3_name: rear right screw
horizontal_move_z: 5.
speed: 50.
screw_thread: CW-M3