SplitKB Aurora Sofle v2 Magnetic Case

Based on my initial top and bottom plate I added a new case that encapsulates the pcb and controller to give them better protection.

See original top/bottom plates here: https://www.printables.com/model/1100353-splitkb-aurora-sofle-v2-top-and-bottom-plate

This new case uses magnets to easily attach/detach the tenting stand. It is a prototype and has some problems (see below) but works fine for me at the moment.

My main intention in posting this is to show my idea as inspiration and maybe improve it over time once I have some more time for it.

• Magnets are neodymium magnets - 2mm thick and 10mm (1cm) in diameter (these are the ones I used: <https://www.amazon.de/Neodym-Magnete-St%C3%BCck-Extrem-Haftst%C3%A4rke/dp/B06X977K8L>)
• it uses 6 magnets on each side of which only 3 are used to attach to the tenting legs
• 3 magnets are used per leg
• 12 magnets minimum and 18 if you want to fill all the slots
• the magnets are glued in (normal “cold” glue, hot glue maybe also works but magnets break when exposed to heat so I didn't try that)
• depending on your 3d printer it might be necessary to adjust the depth of the magnet holes, in my case some support was printed inside which was hard to remove so I increased the hole depth to get the magnet flush with the surface on the legs (does not matter for the magnets on the inside of the case)
• the additional magnets inside the case (the three magnets on the outer side) do not have a use case yet but i wanted the option to change the stand without reprinting the whole case and have additional attachment points for different kind of tenting stands
• if the magnets are inserted with the correct orientation it allows the two sides to attach to each other making it easy to transport the keyboard, albeit with the keys facing outwards (see pictures)
• the stand is detachable allowing to lay the keyboard flat on the surface as well
• since my keyboard has no screens i covered up the controller and added holes for the connections and the reset button
• i also don't use the rotary controller so that slot is covered up as well
• the controller I'm using is the Liatris minicontroller (<https://splitkb.com/collections/keyboard-parts/products/liatris>) with the Mill Max Low Profile Sockets with headers (<https://splitkb.com/collections/keyboard-parts/products/mill-max-low-profile-sockets?variant=47060695646555>)

Problems/Improvements:

• The case has some gaps that can be seen on the side. This is due to some margin I added to make the fit easier. The board was getting stuck on the sides when trying to insert it into the case - this could be reduced with some more fiddling
• The angle of the row of magnets the stand attaches to is not perfect. I had to fiddle a lot with the lengths of the legs to get it to stay on my desk without wobbling. It is not perfect and a little wobble is still there when used on a flat surface. However using a keyboard pad helped to reduce it a lot. It would be better to rotate the magnet row outwards to give it more stability
• the magnets on the stand can get yanked out if they are pulled off directly (the neodymium magnets are really strong when close together) and are not being slid off from the side - here it might be advantageous to move the magnets on the bottom side of the leg so a layer of plastic is between the magnet and the bottom side of the board where it attaches to, similar how the magnets are on the inside of the board case and not on the outside
• it might be easier to just print a little angled slab with holes for the magnet instead of little legs. i was thinking about a slab where the heigt can be adjusted with a little screw