DreamDumper64 Case

I found that the connector slot on my assembled DreamDumper64 was incredibly tight, and that the amount of force required to remove the cartridge physically flexed the PCB. It's also a fully exposed PCB anyway, so I figure why not make a proper 3D printed case for it?

The holes in the corners of the PCB seem to be only big enough for M2, which is too small a size and rarely used for my tastes, so I opted to bolt it together with four M3x6 bolts and brass heated inserts (these inserts specifically).  

As usual, I made specifically-designed detents for each of the areas on the PCB that have components on it for the top shell, meaning you get maximum direct contact area with the PCB instead of just a part of it for maximum support against flexing. The USB-C cutout isn't as loose fitment as the rest to help facilitate alignment between top and bottom shells.

This is also why the “top test fit” model exists – so that you can figure out where fitment issues may be coming from should the top not fit correctly, whether your calibration be off or whether a board revision changed the placement of components. Source Fusion360 file included for ease of modification should that be needed too, everything is clearly labeled and all numbers are stored as parameters, which can be readily adjusted should the need apply.

Edges have a bit of fillet to them, there's a cutout for the header pin up top and the two buttons on the bottom, and the USB C port has plenty enough space around it flush with the board for even the siziest of cables.

Print Settings

Best printed with five shell layers top/bottom for increased rigidity. All Top files (including test fit) need to be flipped upside-down to print accurately, there isn't an easy way to do that automatically when exporting from Fusion360. You'll get sagging that'll cause clearance issues if you don't. (Yes, this is why the part I printed has a lot of white on it, Sunlu high-speed PETG loves to weld to textured PEI… it's really annoying actually)

Assembly

Put brass heated inserts into the four corners of the bottom shell. The PCB should basically barely fit with how tight it is. If you need to adjust PCB_Height or PCB_Width dimensions at all, make sure to adjust any *_from_back or *_from_right parameters (respectively) by the same amounts or the detents/cutouts won't line up. For example, if you add 1mm to PCB_Height, add 1mm to every *_from_back parameter too so the cutouts stay aligned. Try to keep the PCB as tight a fit as possible into the bottom shell – I've made the cutouts for the cartridge slot, header slot, buttons, and IC components a bit loose by intention. The goal is for the PCB to be tightly held inside the bottom shell itself rather than relying on screw tension between top and bottom shells to hold it in place. After that, use four M3x6 screws to hold it all together, and you're good to go! :)