Another fixation for (un)original Prusa Drybox

Intended to be used with:

• Complete modified Hinged lid for Original Prusa Enclosure
• PTFE Passthrough for Original Prusa Enclosure + MMU3
• (Un)original Prusa Drybox sealing Window Frames
  If you don't want to use my window frames you just need shorter screws.

Simple model to attach and retain the (Un)original Prusa Drybox onto the original prusa enclosure. The drybox should sit as far back as it can go on the enclosure.

If the feets together with the Window Frames are used you need 4x M3x20 screws. This way you can quickly lift off the Drybox from the enclosure.

If you want to screw the drybox directly to the fixations you need 4x M3 nuts and 4x M3x25 screws.

In the end I decided on a compromise. I attached the feet in the rear to the drybox using 2x M3x20 screws and in the front I screwed the Drybox to the fixation using instead 2x M3x25 screws from the top.

This way I feel safer in opening the lid while the drybox is still attached to it, especially while it's loaded with 5 spools. But if I want to remove the drybox I only need to remove the two front screws and the spools can stay inside of it.

Changelog:

• 2025-04-12: Uploaded first public R2 version.

Additional Hardware you need:

• 4x M3 nuts for the rear bars.
• either or are required
  • 2x/4x M3x25 to attach the drybox to the bars
  • 2x/4x M3x20 to attach the feets to the drybox.
• 4x M3x8 socket head cap screws for attaching the rear bars to the prusa enclosure lid.
• Optional 4x M3x8 socket head cap screws for attaching the front bars to the prusa enclosure lid.

Printing

• Material: PETG because I heat my enclosure up to 54°C for ASA/PC and the lid will get warm.
• Nozzle: 0.4mm
• Layer Height: 0.2mm
• Perimeters: 4
• Solid layers: Top: 7, Bottom: 7
• Infill: 15% Gyroid
• Supports: Only the InnerRing needs supports in the screw holes