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Proper 3dp pub box — zdjęcie 1
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Proper 3dp pub box

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Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution

The “proper” 3dp Pubbox. This is for all intents and purposes the OG 3dp Pubbox, i  just added some holes and slots to the bottom for 2 m3 inserts to properly attach the connector covers and made my own version of those. 

Also added some little zip tie anchors inside to aid with wire and component management.

this is HUFF designs original work so please make sure to credit him if shared or used commercially

og Pubbox description:

3DP PubBox is what I think is a fantastic blend of cooling, functionality, and compatibility.
It is meant to be a middle ground between 3D printed boxes with 3mm thick lids and full metal boxes while still remaining affordable and easy to fabricate and install. 


Compatibility:
-Compatible with a stock XR Footpad and its matching SwitchCraft connectors
-Capable of housing a Thor-300 VESC from Fungineers along with a 2S2P 21700 pack up front for split pack builds (Not sure if an LFOC will fit comfortability with the split pack, may be tight fit)
-The THICC Lid design has a threaded bolt pattern that matches both the Thor-300 and LFOC, so no need for a new lid or making new holes for changing between the two. 
-I added FLATT lids for THOR and LFOC/TRONIC 250r so if you dont want as more expensive THICC lid, you will be chilling with a 3mm FLATT lid
-Compatible with either a PG13.5 or M20 Gland on the motor entry hole, or the new Superflux Motor Connector


Features:
-Improved Cooling with the bulked up lid (THICC LID)
-Hopefully a overall more strengthened box then that of a Flowglider or Fungineers Box due to more material to strengthen the box and more fastening points for the lid, especially in the light bar area (where I have had plenty of other boxes fail myself)
-Designed to be used with 3mm thick Acrylic windows for the LEDs (These can be obtained from Avaspark)
 

Parts List: 
-Box (PETG at a bare minimum, recommend abs/asa or stronger)
-Lid (6061 Aluminum)
   - THICC: Meant to absorb more heat and be used with shorter VESCs such as LFOC and THOR-300
   - FLATT: Meant to fit taller VESCs such as Tronic 250R
-Gasket: Print in soft tpu or anything squishy u think would work

-Heat inserts m3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BCRZZS3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
-Heat inserts m5: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YSVXWS8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
-M3 Counter Sunk Bolts: https://a.co/d/3RT8NhH
-M5 Counter Sunk Bolts: https://a.co/d/9MKdAr3
-M3 Nuts: https://a.co/d/3h9Woh6

-GX 16 Charge Port: https://a.co/d/2Jph2Bm
-19mm Button Switch

-SwitchCraft connector
   - Genuine Version (Fits Great)
   - Aliexpress Version (Will fit, but wont key like a genuine one due to being slightly smaller in diameter at the interface point) Choose 6P Bayonet Version
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801025390557.html?

-Battery Cable Gland: PG13.5 or M20
-Superflux connector OR Motor Cable Gland (PG13.5 or M20)
-3mm window from avaspark

-LFOC/Tronic Spacers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFNUJCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

How To Get THICC Lid:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Vu7nsqN1Vs3T2Xf045hCw4wC7sb_dL2SIUMZ5z-cEAY/edit?usp=sharing

If you need other parts to test fitment, check my models out and find what your wanna test fitment of (vesc type, connector type, etc)

 Please do not sell my models without crediting me :D

Tagi