NH-SB Compatability Modification for Dragonburner

THIS PROJECT HAS SOME RISK AS IT REQUIRES SLIGHT MODIFICATION OF THE NH-SB TOOLHEAD BOARD (BENDING PINS). Consider before continuing that you might ruin your toolhead board.

This is exclusively for people building Dragonburners using E3D Revo hotends, NH-SB toolhead boards, IGDA gear sets, and the WWBMG extruder with an ECAS fitting. This is intended for people doing Stealthchanger builds, but should also apply if you only run one toolhead in general. Most importantly, it's for people like me who wanted to go with all Stealthburner tools on their toolchanger build, later reconsidered, and didn't want to consign multiple $40 toolhead PCBs and nice extruder gears to the spare parts bin.

First, print everything from the Dragonburner repo except for the Revo hotend mount and the extruder mount.

Second, go to the WWBMG remix by minilogique and print the tensioner arm: https://www.printables.com/model/1154980-wwbmg-wristwatch-extruder-for-idga-not-ridga-with

Third, print all the files in this project.

You will assemble everything the same you would as any Dragonburner with a Revo hotend, and you'll assemble the remixed WWBMG with IGDA gears using “WWBMG_IGDA_Body.stl” and “WWBMG_IGDA_Motor_Plate.stl” from this project (the screw hole positions to mount the extruder to the tool are slightly adjusted from minilogique's project).

“JSTPH_Breakout_Holder.stl” - this is a holder for 3x JST-PH 2-pin and 1x JST-PH 3-pin connectors. You will use these as a breakout for the pins on the NH-SB that connect to the original fans and LEDs breakout. Use a Dupont 2x4 (8-pin) connector for the toolhead board side of the breakout cable.

One of the images in this post is a wiring diagram; compare this to the pinout of the NH-SB to get your pins arranged properly in the Dupont 2x4 connector. Note that the perspective of the diagram is that you're looking at the BACK of the connectors, with the alignment tabs toward the TOP.

Seat each JST-PH into the breakout holder from the back (the side with the screw hole) and position them as best as you can, then I recommend bedding the whole thing with epoxy (put a screw into the screw hole to prevent the path from filling). This piece will hang off of the “upper” screw which is used to mount the motor and retain the toolhead board. I have not made a version of this with 4x 3-pin connectors because I don't use tachometer features.

On the NH-SB, SLOWLY and CAREFULLY bend all of the pins that go to the LED and fan daughterboard straight. You will know if you have goof'd up if the pin you're bending suddenly becomes way more compliant, which indicates the pin has probably cracked. You can bandaid this with some solder if you're lucky and haven't completely broken the pin off. Worst case scenario, you can either fully replace broken pins if you have the right sizes on hand, or just solder the wires directly to the solder pads if you haven't torn those out along with the pin. Once the pins are all sticking straight out of the board, trim them all to the same length, then put the 2x4 Dupont connector on and continue to trim the pins until the Dupont connector seats fully. If you have a pin forming tool, use one of those on the tips - but not 100% necessary.

After this, you can finally mount it on a Dragonburner.

The files in this project have all been printed and are confirmed to fit, and the information in the above description of the modification path has all been done by yours truly. Print and try at your own risk. If you do, report back on what could be improved.