Raspberry Pi 5 Case with UPS/Battery, Active Cooler, SSD, and full-HDMI

I wanted a good case for traveling and taking my Raspberry Pi 5 for tinkering.  I liked my other designs, but I wanted it to be portable so I can use it with AR glasses.  That meant I needed a  UPS and batteries which required a completely new design.  My requirements for this case:

• All Ports on One Side (except SD)
• Integrated UPS/Battery
• 1 SSD (2 would be a bonus)
• Full-Size HDMI
• Slim Case to save space when traveling
• Integrated UPS/Battery
• UPS Power Button accessible
• All LEDs visible
• Good air flow

This case adds the Geekworm X1201 Ultra-Thin 5V UPS Shield and a SD card slot to my previous design for the  Raspberry Pi 5, Active Cooler, GeeekPi N10 Tiny PCIe M.2 Key-M NVMe SSD PCIe Peripheral Board,  the Waveshare Pi5 Connector Adapter for full size HDMI and putting all the ports on the same side.  

The internal frame holds all of the boards and the USB-C port extensions securely in place.  My previous cases left off the SD card window because it was too close to the rpi5 Power Button making that part prone to breaking when pushed.  However, now that the power button on the USP shield performs the same task, I was able to add the SD and remove the rpi5 power button.  I added a colar around the power button so it is less prone to accidental activation.  There is a cover for the HDMI adapter board because power must go through the UPS/Battery board to avoid damaging the rpi5 (I kept plugging it into the wrong port so something had to be done).

I used a very small SSD board; however, there should be room for larger boards if you would like to use 2260 or maybe even 2280 boards.  I might try to mount the Pimoroni Base Duo on top to see if that fits at some point. 

I haven't had issues with it throttling due to heat, even in tropical environments, so cooling must be working.  

Requires:

Raspberry Pi 5

Geekworm X1201 Ultra-Thin 5V UPS Shield for Raspberry Pi 5 + 2 Batteries (amazon.com)

SSD HAT+.  May work with various boards that don't attach to GPIOs including some dual SSD boards:  I used the GeeekPi N10 Tiny PCIe M.2 Key-M NVMe SSD PCIe Peripheral Board + 1 SSDs (2230 or 2242) (amazon.com, etc.)

Waveshare Micro HDMI to HDMI Multifunctional Adapter (Waveshare.com, amazon.com, etc.).  Remove the Green screw terminal prior to assembly.  It will come off with your fingers or a little heat from a soldering iron could help.

10 2.5mm heat-set Threaded Inserts for holding the board and closing the case

4 2.5mm Screws (3mm or longer; shorter are better) for closing the case ends

6 2.5mm Screws (18-20mm length) for attaching Rpi5,  SSD, and UPS boards to frame

4 2.5mm Screws (5-10mm length) for attaching HDMI Adapter board to frame

4 rubber feet for the bottom (Cabinet Bumpers Furniture Bumpers Kitchen Cabinet Door Stoppers Sound Dampening Rubber Bumpers Made of Soft Eva Rubber for Quiet Drawer Close Anti Slam Cushion Rubber feet Pads 10 mm (50 pcs, Black)) (amazon.com)

2 USB-C adapters:

     1 Right-angle Male - Female (I used Poyiccot 2-pack 90 Degre USB C) (amazon.com)

     1 Straight extension Male - Female (it has been too long, I don't remember what one I bought) (amazon.com)

Assembly:

Insert 4 threaded inserts into the Shell

Insert 6 threaded inserts into the internal frame:  2 for the UPS board, 4 for the HDMI Adapter board.   Since these screws will be coming up through the board and into the threads, make sure they are inserted in the correct orientation (i.e., beveled end in first).  The Rpi5 and SSD board do not require threaded inserts as they screw directly into the UPS board.

Remove the Green screw terminal prior to assembly from the HDMI adapter board.  It will come off with your fingers or a little heat from a soldering iron could help.

Place the HDMI adapter board in the frame.  Pop the USB-C Right Angle adapter into the frame (this will take some doing as I intentionally made this very tight so it won't slip once assembled).  Place the USB-C straight extension in place.  Check the fit.  It may be necessary trim the pins on the bottom of the HDMI adapter board or shave down the plastic coating on the USB-C straight extension to keep them from hitting.  Additionally, I had to trim the plastic around the Female USB-C port back from the end so it will fit perfectly in the Rear panel and the plug doesn't hit the Rear panel wall.  See the included picture where I have cut away the plastic so the metal part protrudes into the Rear Plate.  I also removed the alternate connector from the HDMI adapter board since I only want USB-C input.

Without screwing in the HDMI board, put the rpi5, SSD, and UPS boards in place.  Insert the 4 long screws from the top of the frame through the holes and into the UPS stand-offs.  Once tight, now screw down the HDMI board.

Slide the Frame into the Shell over and screw it closed.  Screw the Rear Panel in place.  4 padded feet can go on the bottom to keep it from sliding/scratching your desk.

I printed on a Mk4S with 0.15 layer height (0.20 works well, but I like how the hexagons look with 0.15), 15% infill, PLA and Silk PLA for a pop of color.  Print the shell on-end, without supports.  Print the Rear panel and frame so that the end panels are vertical with all organic supports enabled.