"Book" Bookend

Everyone's designing and printing bookends, so here's my take on one. I didn't know we were all such avid readers…

The stand part of the bookend is meant to go under the nearest books so it stays in place, and for the bookend to look like it's just another book on the end of the row.

I put in a a compartment in the bottom of the book where I planned on putting in weights so it would be more solid. But weights are not needed as once you put a heavy enough book on the stand part, the bookend is going nowhere. But I thought the compartment was a neat place to store (or hide) some small valuables so I kept it as part of the design.

I printed the model with fuzzy skin outer walls for the book part to give it an old-leather-journal look.

Versions

There are three ways you can print this. There's a 3MF file for the left-hand and right-hand side of each way (The 3MF files are for Bambu Studio but you can still use them to get all the objects and parts separated and in place if you use a different slicer).

Split into parts version

The bookend is split into parts and separated into a few plates by colour. You will need to glue the spine lines and pages on afterwards. This can be printed on a 3D printer that doesn't have multicolour capabilities (i.e. AMS or MMU) but still get different colours in the end model. This is how I will personally be printing this if I make this again in the future as it prints a lot quicker than the multicolour version and looks as good (if not better). Attaching the parts only takes 5 mins and it doesn't waste filament with all the colour changes that are needed for some multicolour printers.

Multicolour version

One plate, no glue required. If you have a printer capable of multicolour printing.

Single colour version

The fastest way to print this. Everything is intended to be the same colour. One plate and you can choose not to use fuzzy skin to reduce print time slightly.

Print Settings

Here are the print settings I used and would recommend:

• 0.2mm layers, 2 walls, 15% infill
• Arachne wall generator to for the really thin model details on the top of the pages to show up.

Book object:

• 180 degree bridge direction. (Or whatever bridge direction has bridges starting and finishing on the model and not on the support interface for the compartment).
• Adaptive Cubic Sparse infill pattern so it prints slightly faster without compromising strength.
• Manually painted grid/normal supports with 0.25mm Top Z distance, 1mm support/object xy distance. Supports painted on the roof of the bottom compartment and end tabs of the bottom cover. 
• Fuzzy skin turned on using contour mode and a point distance of 0.8mm and skin thickness of 0.3mm.

Pages object:

• 90 degree infill and bridge direction, and aligned rectilinear for the top surface pattern to get the pages effect.
• Printed in 0.08mm layers if printed as a separate object

Spine lines objects (if printing as separate objects):

• Outer brim turned on as these are small and thin.

Since fuzzy skin is used and the profile of the model going up is mostly the same, this would be a good model to try printing with a larger nozzle (0.6 or 0.8) and larger layer height as the layers should not be easily visible even with thicker layers.

The parts assembly STL and STP are what should be used for the “split into parts” version. The parts are slightly smaller in these files so they fit into the bookend easily.

Other details:

• Dimensions: 148 x 149 x 200 mm
• Recommended Material: PLA Matte
• Designer: Haris Amin, Dezain 3D
• Supports Required?: Yes. For the roof of the compartment and the tabs of the bottom cover. But not for the slots for where the tabs go. Use manual supports or block the supports in the slots.

Supports are required because of the compartment, but they come off very easily. If you take a pair of pliers and dig it into the supports underneath and pull, the supports should just come off in one piece: