Yet another cereal container dry box system (fits small print beds)

IMPORTANT: I designed this system for this particular model of cereal container. See the last photos in the gallery to see if your containers match before printing.

Yet another dry box system for the ever-popular cereal containers. This one has a split base so it can fit smaller print beds (I print mine on my BambuLab A1 Mini), and a silica gel bead box that has a solid bottom and screw-on cover, so it can be moved around without fear of silica beads spreading everywhere.

Extra parts you'll need:

• 4x 608 bearings.
• 4x M3 heat-set threaded inserts.
• 4x M3 screws. Ideally countersunk, but not mandatory.
• 1x PTFE tube coupler. I use PC4-M6 couplers, but any size will work.
• 1x digital hygrometer. The design is for the round hygrometers with a ~42mm diameter, so if you use another shape or size, you'll have to adapt the holder. Or, if you use a rectangular hygrometer than can stand on its own, you can just omit the holder and place the hygrometer straight into the box.
• Silica gel beads.

Tools:

• A soldering iron for the heat-set threaded inserts. If you have a Pinecil or a TS100/TS101, Ruthex makes a great tip adapter and set of melting tips.
• A drill and corresponding drill bit (6mm if you're using a PC4-M6 coupler like me).

Print hardware and settings I use:

• Bambu Lab A1 Mini printer with Textured PEI Plate.
• 0.4mm nozzle.
• PLA/PLA+ filament.
• 0.2mm layer height for everything except the coupler nut, which I print at 0.12mm.
• Standard supports.
• 15% infill for everything except the axles, which I print at 100%.
• See the photo gallery for the orientation I print everything on.

To assemble (see photo gallery for photos taken at every step):

1. Print everything.
2. Melt-in the heat-set inserts.
3. Drop the silica box bottom into the base.
4. Fill the silica box with beads up to the height of the threaded insert posts.
5. Attach the silica box cover with the M3 screws.
6. Fit the two base parts together.
7. Press the bearings into the axle holders, the axles into the bearings, and then the holders into the base.
8. Press the hygrometer into the hygrometer holder. Mind the orientation of the holder: the side that was on the print bed goes toward the outside.
9. Press the hygrometer holder into the base.
10. Drill a hole into the cereal container, either closer to the top or the bottom, based on how you'll place the box in relation to your printer and the direction your spool will rotate. I drill mine about 5cm from the top (which is actually the bottom of the container).
11. Insert the coupler through the hole, and tighten the nut on the inside. It doesn't have to be super tight.
12. Place the assembled base into the upside down container lid. The base is designed according to the lid shape of this particular type of cereal container, so it will only fit one way.
13. Place the roll of filament onto the axles, pull some filament through the coupler, and place the container over the lid and close it down.

You're done. When not attached to the printer, the coupler cover can be placed over the coupler to limit the amount of air that can go into the box.