IKEA HÖGBO (HOGBO) Glass Door Compatible COB LED Strip Mounting Trim

Warning: This will be tedious as hell to make but I figured it was still worth sharing. If you find any improvements to the method and/or models by all means share it in a comment and/or remix.

Soldering and wire stripping equipment will be necessary. This involves messing with electricity including mains wall voltage. Do not take this lightly or cut corners. Do your own research that fits your needs and design accordingly to ensure safe operation. This post is just intended to share the 3d prints but doing so also requires sharing my own lighting setup to explain how this all works. It is not intended to be an end all be all guide. Rather, this should be a starting point to be aware of everything involved.

I will not be responsible for ANY damage or injury. Do this at your own risk.

I use IKEA Billy bookcases with HÖGBO glass doors as display cases and wanted a way to light them with LED strips without ruining the adjust-ability of the shelves which would happen if you attach any lights to them directly. So I came up with a 3d printed trim/frame you can snap into the door frames. This results in an almost invisible mounting when the lights are off and provides an angle surface to better aim the light towards the middle of the shelves. Possibly works best with white shelving since it will bounce the light a bit better but since I only have white I can't really be certain. 

NOTE: These are designed to be a rather tight press fit. Use caution when pressing them in. How tight the fit will likely be largely dependent on IKEA's manufacturing tolerances as well as your own printer. I have uploaded .f3d and STEP files to allow you to customize it. If they are loose for you, modify the thickness of the snap in equally on both size by .05 each. This will let you sneak up on a snug fit by .1mm at a time. You are aiming for them to simply not fall out. They may be able to slide along the frame and that's fine.

Print settings:   .25 first layer, .2 remaining layers, .4 nozzle, 3 perimeters, 4 top/bottom layers,  13% infill, supports enabled, I used PLA but use whichever you like that results in non-warped straight pieces.

I suggest printing a single straight piece to test fit. Also, when installing do the corners first. They will not be able to be installed otherwise. 

The STLs provided are what I personally chose to do as far as where the wire is run to begin each LED strip. Each STL has the number required as well as the intended position for a single door and were made to fit within my 300x300 bed without creating and weird random short pieces. If you have a larger or smaller bed, use the CAD files to make your own or you can also adjust length via your slicer. Whichever is easier. The strip with the zip tie mount is where the power wire connection to the bookcase starts. For me I chose to run the power wire under the fixed middle shelf to the middle hinge. The zip-tie is used to prevent the wire from twisting the solder joint on the LED strip. See the uploaded photos for better detail on the installation. Feel free to ask questions and request more photos if something is unclear.

My personal BOM (Do your own research and adjust accordingly. AGAIN, you are messing with electricity after all so do so safely. Personally I do not leave this powered unattended and I have tried to overbuild in some cases for safety to avoid shorting, overheating and injury. Links are merely suggested sources. DO. THIS. SAFELY.) Also, this is my first write-up so please if ANYTHING is unclear, dm me or comment asking for clarification before you start. I'll try my best to be rapidly responsive. I'll try and respond same day. Also, take 

https://a.co/d/5D5cJaS - Anti Tip Furniture Anchors. If you haven't installed anti tip brackets USE THESE to anchor your bookcases to studs. The open door will make it fall forward. The IKEA provided ones are crap IMO. Drive the small screws into the bookcases by hand and slowly. Stop when snug. It is ridiculously easy to strip the hole in the wood.

https://a.co/d/cqkd5Io - 24V COB LED Strip 8mm wide. The printed parts were designed with this strip width in mind and is the max width. Pick your preferred color temperature. I went with 4000K (natural white). The length these come in is the maximum allowed length for safety. DO NOT DAISY CHAIN STRIPS. You should get about two doors per strip and my design places them in parallel so as to avoid exceeding max length for any number of doors.

https://a.co/d/6TrQQe3 - Dimmable 24V LED driver. The one I linked to is what I used to drive 4 doors in parallel based on my own estimates. Do your own research and size yours to your needs. The r/LED community on Reddit is an excellent resource. Wiring info is on the casing.

https://a.co/d/1ZyEscQ - Appliance and Power Tool Cord, 14 Gauge 3 Prong 15A for the input to the driver. Pick whatever length suits you. I went long and cut it down. 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-ProConnex-3-8-in-Plastic-Snap-in-Connector-Conduit-Fittings-100-Pack/1087997 - Not entirely certain on what size I had as I had these left over in an unmarked box. The knockout is 7/8" (22.225 mm) but you want the 3/8" trade size. Don;t ask, doesn't make sense to me either but the chart says its for a 22.22 hole. Use one of these on the power cord side to prevent it from being yanked out and exposing nine voltage. It should be firmly stuck pin place when wire is inserted and tugged.

https://a.co/d/j0Wn80M -7/8" Rubber Grommets for Wiring, I used these on the output knockout.

https://a.co/d/86e7yS6 - 2Pack DC0/1-10V Knob LED Dimmer Mini Controller, connects to the LED driver's dimmer input to adjust brightness in case you find full power too bright. (With 4 doors it absolutely is/ If you plan to use a wall dimmer switch you can omit this. The driver I linked works with multiple types of dimmers, look at its data sheet and ask questions in r/LED  to ensure proper wiring. For me its was Brown on the dimmer to DIM+, Blue to DIM-.

https://a.co/d/fd4ZMNQ - 221-2401 | WAGO Lever-Nuts® Inline Splicing Connector, used to connect the power cord, the LEDs and the dimmer to the driver. Excellent, code compliant and UL listed way to splice together wires of potentially differing gauges and styles (solid vs stranded). When using lever nuts make sure you strip enough copper to make a connection but you should NOT see any copper when closed. Wagos have a length gauge on the sides.

https://a.co/d/fb0XDEx - T-shape lever nuts. As shown in the photos, I ran a main 24V and Ground bus line and then ran wires down to each door to put them in parallel. These lever nuts make that easier. Again, do your own research. This just made the most sense for me with 4 doors. There are other ways, just make sure whatever you do it is SAFE. Again. when using lever nuts make sure you strip enough copper to make a connection but you should NOT see any copper when closed. The indent on the bottom of these lever nuts is your length guide for how much to strip but when i doubt the markings on the Wagos will also work.

https://a.co/d/dehfkMn - Southwire 55667123 Primary Wire; 14-Gauge - Used to form the power wire bus along the top. I bought one spool each in red and black. Probably don't need 100 foot rolls so feel free to source smaller ones. Just give yourself some spare for mistakes.

https://a.co/d/dLY5krx - The zip tie locations were designed to use these very thin zip ties. Its just to keep the wire from tugging on the LED strip when the door is opened and shut.

 https://www.remingtonindustries.com/hook-up-wire/hook-up-wire-20-awg-ptfe-stranded-10-colors-7-sizes-available/?srsltid=AfmBOorxYHPbIwVY-_QkRp8qgYlZTj_pdcR4P_GeFdryK7qscTvxR4Co - 20 AWG PTFE stranded hook up wire. I used it to connect the segments of LED strips. It's thinner than a standard jacket and more resistant to melting while you solder. It bends really nice to be able to form corners and tuck behind the door hinges. 

https://a.co/d/5XEctbV - Barrel Jack 5.5x2.1mm Female, mounted to the back of the shelves so that the doors can be unplugged and removed.

https://a.co/d/guCFGCc - 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC Socket Male Barrel Jack, Solder On DIY Custom Power Plug Adapter

https://a.co/d/0ilXmFQ - 20 AWG silicone jacketed wire. Used to make the wires that connect the door to the DC jack, sleeved with paracord to hide the red and black.

(Optional) https://a.co/d/2PRDqRA - White Paracord. I used this to sleeve the DC door connection wire. You cut it to length and pull the core thread out, then use a lighter to melt the ends so it doesn't fray. This leaves a hollow fabric tube to run the wire through. Secured on the ends with white shrink tubing.

                                                                               Build Steps

Bookcase Build and Door Assembly

This is what I did to assemble mine since I'm using 1 standard Billy and 2 narrow ones.  Look at the uploaded photos as well for reference. Also, each time you make any connections for the wiring check and make sure there are solid connections and no shorts with a multi-meter. You kinda only have one shot to do this right. So at each step, verify and verify again. Read all the steps BEFORE starting.

1. Assemble billy bookcases and anchor them to studs with anti tip brackets. You will be sliding these out from their anchors so protect your floors. If hard floor, maybe stick strips of felt to the bottoms to avoid scratches.
2. Mount the doors according to the Ikea instructions and make sure they are properly adjusted if you haven't done so already. Make sure they are level and closing properly. Doing this after might be more challenging. When satisfied, un-clip the doors with the button on each hinge being careful to support the doors while you do or else you risk damage. Keeping track of which door goes where and lay them flat face down. Press the trim pieces into place. The rectangular edge is what presses into the slot in the door frames. Again they should be snug and may require SOME force to press in but if you see the metal bending STOP and use the design files to adjust the fit and reprint. Start with the corner pieces and make sure they are fully square in the corners. I pressed one side in a bit away from the corner and then slid it in the slot to press the other end in. They should look like the picture I uploaded.
3. Use rubbing alcohol to clean your finger grease off the trim. Then measure, cut and stick your LED strips and solder them in series being mindful of polarity. I did it so the 24V line runs the outer perimeter. You also want to aim for sticking them down correctly the first time. If you peel up and re-stick them, the adhesive may not be as secure. So go slow and check lengths and position before removing the backing tape. Leave the spot where the power input connects alone for now. You will be soldering those on after re-mounting the doors. When soldering you do not need to make the end of the loop connect back to start.

Put the doors aside, remembering which goes where. Maybe number them with painters tape/post-it.

Bookcase Wiring

1. Use the 3d printed jig to mark and drill a small starter hole (like 1 mm diameter) into the back panel from the front where you want your DC jacks. The arrow on the jig faces the corner formed by the side wall and shelf.  If you have room to drill the full size hole, go for it. In my case the size of my drill was too tight. 
2. Carefully unscrew the anchor from the bookcase, slide it out from under the bracket (mind your floors, mine are carpet.)
3. Lay the bookcases down flat on their faces. This is where you can CAREFULLY drill (I used a bad point drill bit)  the full size hole for the DC barrel jack being careful to not cause blowout on the inside of the book case (may be unavoidable as you can see in my photos. I plan to use a white paint pen to touch them up. 
4. Insert and secure the barrel jacks (probably will require to you stand them back up temporarily to secure the nut). Two people can help this go easier. Lay it back face down when the dc jack is tightened. 
5. Prepare the DC jack sockets. Your LEDs come with barrel plugs attached. Cut one off and strip the wires to make a test plug. Plug it into the DC socket and use a multimeter between the leads on on side and the pins on the back of the jack in continuity mode to verify and mark which pin is V+ (red) and which is ground (black). Typically DC jacks are wired to be center positive so that pin on the jack should be pretty obvious. The other two are ground but only one works when the plug is inserted and I found that out the hard way 😁. (I got completely done and realized it wasn't right on all 4 of mine).
6. Solder wires to the DC jacks to the pins you determined above and use shrink tubing to insulate the connections. Run the wires from the jacks to the tops of the bookcases and use the T-Levers to wire the bookcases such that you create a 24V and a GND line terminal with each wire up the back connecting to their respective T-Lever. (see photos) I made this to hold the T-levers in place: https://www.printables.com/model/1319254-t-lever-nut-holderanchormount 
7. Double side tape each T-Lever down to the top of the bookcases to keep them from falling. Label polarity. 
8. Double check your polarity as well on all connections. The T Levers have a test port. Once you put the bookcases back up you really want to avoid having to redo things or wires falling out of reach as the anti tip brackets are really not designed for multiple removals. When satisfied stand the bookcases back up and anchor them to the wall according to IKEA directions.
9. Get on a step stool and on top of the bookcases carefully connect all all the 24V t-levers together in series, then GND in series. Then finally connect your driver output wires accordingly. (see photo)
10. With the doors on and open, use whatever method you are comfortable with to create you barrel lead. One end plugs into the DC jack in the back of the bookcase and the other you solder to the start of each LED strip and then secure it with a zip tie. I sleeved mine with paracord and attached them under the fixed shelf with command strip wire clips. This lets things move a bit as you open and shut the door. 

At thus point, you should have a dimmable lighted display case. I finished mine off with some brush type weather stripping. To keep fine dust out. I adjusted my doors to close flat against the sides of the bookcases and then filled the top gap with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081JY6KX5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title The middle gap from the double doors was filled with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8JQCWCS?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title