Sovol Zero - Removeable 270 degree door hinge (no hardware/no supports)

SOVOL ZERO MOD

270° Hinge, easily removeable, no additional screws or supports required. Feedback would be appreciated. 

WHAT IS IT?

I think ALL printers should have 270 degree hinges. Especially those with glass doors. If it isn't against a wall, you should be able to get it out of the way. And if you are printing with the door open and the top off, why not just remove it? 

You can use all the existing screws to assemble these hinges. Version 1 was my initial creation. Looks intersting and works, but looked a little odd with 3 screws exposed. So I made version 2. 

PROTIP: The existing hinge screw is 30mm. If you have a 25mm sockethead screw, I would use that on the bottom hinge, so you can seat the top first, then the bottom.


HOW TO PRINT

Like Burger King, "have it your way!" I have printed tests on the flat side and standing up with no failures.  Both with and without supports. So, it just comes down to what surface appearance you want. I used version 1 with 2 walls and version 2 with 3 walls. Both performed fine. I used ABS. PLA should work also, as it isn't going to be exposed to much heat. PETG might be too flexible.

The fastest print, and strongest way, is laying the large flat surface down like the bottom models in slicer image below. Then, your bed surface determines the surface texture and appearance. The frame and door screws compress layer lines and won't crack. The back of the parts will have the stair step appearance though, which doesn't look bad, but isn't nearly as clean looking as printing it upright. Both types are included in the photos up top. I am using the ones I printed standing, up with no supports. I have not seen an issue with durability.

Can you guess which was printed laying down and which printed standing up?

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

• Remove each hinge
  • There are two screws through the glass door and two more into the frame. The two in the glass have plastic washers/spacers to prevent the metal of the screw and nylon locking nut from touching the glass. 
  • To remove the nuts, you have to have a small wrench or pliers, to hold the nut in place while unscrewing the M3 screws. Keep track of each of these screws (8) and plastic spacers (4). 
• Once the glass and hinges are removed from the printer, remove the 30mm silver sockethead screw from inside the hinge. No pliers needed. 
• Install the long screw up though the bottom of the “Bottom” printed part. The screw is threading into the plastic, so once the head is inside the plastic, don't overtighten it. PROTIP: The existing hinge screw is 30mm. If you have a 25mm sockethead screw, I would use that on the bottom hinge, so you can seat the top first, then the bottom instead of trying to do both at the same time. I side add a chamfer to assist, but still easier one at a time.
• Screw the “Bottom” printed part into the frame of the printer.
• Screw the “Top” printed part into the door. DON'T FORGET the plastic spacers, don't break the glass!
• Slide the door hinges down onto the exposed screws on the bottom hinges.
• Finally, take a picture and send it to your family and friends with Sovol Zero's, while gloating about how much cooler you are than them, now.
   

IN CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW

The power cable is on the left side. If you are using the stock cable, that may prevent you from getting the whole 270 degrees, as seen in the photo below.  I fixed this by purchasing a 90degree IEC extension. This is not an affiliate link, just makes things nicer… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVBJBXC

* I put my logo on the inside bottom piece. It is just my initials. If there is enough uproar, or I am asked nicely, I will post a blank version. Seems only right to sign my work though, and I put it out of sight :p