HOn30 Freelance Class A Climax

Here is a simple (and hopefully somewhat beginner friendly) Hon30 Class A Vertical Boiler Climax. This was designed loosely based on several prototype photos with inspiration drawn from the NWSL and Mark Rollins kits that were offered a few years back. This model was designed to be printed on an FDM printer with a standard 0.4 mm nozzle and all parts are designed to be printed flat with no support. Also, this model is designed for use on the inexpensive and readily available Kato 11-105, 11-106, or 11-107 chassis for power. 

Tips for printing:

Print each of the files making sure to orient them correctly.

(Looking at the files you’ll need to flip the floor, Boiler & Engine, and Tank Base over so they’ll print correctly. Widest and flattest parts should be on the bottom. The Pilot steps will need to be turned 90 degrees with their toe boards pointing up to print correctly as well.)

Print 1 of each file and print 2 sets of the Pilot Steps (you’ll need 4 steps in total). 

Edit: There are now alternatives to the frame (thicker with beveled ends to closer match the prototype) and roof uprights (taller roof for OO9 scale or to simply make it look taller)

Assembly:

What you’ll need: Printed components, Kato chassis, paint, super glue, small file or sand paper (just in case of fitment issues), and any additional detail parts you want to add,

Start by dry fitting the frame, floor, and tank base to ensure they fit on the chassis. They should slide down over the top of the chassis without forcing them (they are a snug fit and can be a bit fiddly). Next check to ensure the uprights fit in the stake pockets, the bottoms are notched out to fit in the pockets with the flush portion pointing inside and the notch pointing outwards. The roof uprights have a right and a left as well as a front and back so be mindful of this. Finally check the fitment of the tank cover and rear cover on the tank base, these have guides on the bottom to help position them.

Once satisfied with the fitment some parts can be glued together before painting (i.e. the tank and rear covers onto the tank base to make a completed tank). I recommend painting the completed tank, floor, and boiler/engine before final assembly as these will be hard to reach with the completed model. I also recommend adding any additional detail parts at this time such as piping, gauges, controls, etc.

To assemble the model, I like to first glue tank cover and rear cover on the tank base and glue the tank filler onto the tank cover (align tabs and use super glue sparingly). Next using the chassis for alignment place the frame on the chassis and then glue the floor to the frame (only use glue on the outside edge of the floor and be careful not to glue everything to the chassis!) Still using the chassis for alignment glue the tank base to the floor (use glue sparingly on the front and rear of the tank base and be careful not to glue everything to the chassis!). With the main body assembled remove it from the chassis and insert the boiler and engine up from the bottom and glue it to the tank cover and rear cover with the boiler away from the tank. Next add the uprights, small ones without holes to the rear and the small ones with holes at the front with the tank and add the roof uprights being mindful of orientation. (Notches for the pockets face outward), glue on the top rail and add a front handrail made of wire if you wish. The handrail should wrap around the front and go through the holes on the front uprights and first roof uprights then bend downwards ending at the small brackets on the frame. Next glue on the curved roof braces lining them up with uprights (some light sanding or filing of these may be needed for a better fit. Next glue the roof on, bending it to curve over the braces. Finally glue on the pilot steps to the front and rear of the frame, there are notches to help position these. The chassis can be secured with some Blu-tack or a small drop of hot glue but I just leave mine loose for easier maintenance.  Add a coal or wood load to the rear and you’re ready to go!

Final notes:

I prefer to use the Kato 11-107 chassis as it has side frames that are closest to the earlier prototype pictures. This is all personal preference though.

For couplers, you can use the standard Rapido style couplers, but I switched mine to Kato 923500 knuckles with minimal fuss using Kato 923524 cover plates, Roundhouse and Fox Valley Models also make nice more straight forward conversion knuckle couplers (but I only recommend the coupler swap for more experienced modelers doing it at their own risk)

To reduce costs details can be made from anything from paperclips, staples, and various other items, get creative! I used small jeweled screws and nuts from a glasses repair kit to add gauges, an old n scale brake wheel and styrene bits to add controls, and the piping was made from staples and paper clips. A piece of painted solder can be used to make a convincing hose hanging from the front as these locomotives usually worked in the backwoods and were refilled from whatever water source was available.

The models pictured are an early iteration, and my personal model that has been painted and detailed. My finished model uses the alternative frame and taller uprights.

If you have any comments, questions, suggestions, or funny remarks feel free to reach out to me. I hope to be sharing more of my models in the future including a Class B Climax, a frame adapter for the AHM Minitrains Plymouth,  and some other Hon30 locomotives designed for Resin Printing

Best Regards,

Dr. Fixet