Ender 3 NG v1.2 Razer Kiyo camera mount

Here's a model that lets you mount your Razer Kiyo to a 10 mm x 400 mm rod between your belt tensioners!  This model is designed to squeeze a Razer Kiyo inside the enclosure of an Ender 3 NG v1.2 enclosure, while leaving room for the tool head at the 0 Y position (closest to the camera), but this model can be used for any printer that has some extrusions to mount to at the corners.

This camera is great because:

• It has a bright set of front LED lights
• It has a really clear 1080p picture at 30 FPS
• It supports software-controlled focus controls
• It's about $42 online as of this writing
• It has hardware H264 video encoding

The hardware H264 encoding is a really big deal for the small SoC boards that are commonly used in Ender 3 NG v1.2 builds, like Raspberry Pi boards, because the native H264 stream can simply be passed to Media MTX.  This means that you can get a 1080p video feed at 30 FPS without putting any noticeable load on your SoC's CPU, even if it does not support hardware video encoding!

However, there are some downsides:

• The front LED lights are hardware-controlled (no software control is possible)
• It overheats in a heated chamber at about 50 C

Since it overheats in a heated chamber, I recommend using this camera for builds that don't include chamber heaters.  If your chamber isn't heated, then this camera is perfect in almost every way for this printer.

This model includes enclosures with two cable positions: one that leaves the model to the left, and one that leaves to the right.  You'll want to print one of these for your preference.  After printing, install two M3x5x4 heat inserts into the back of the enclosure (like these).  Also print two rod holders, and attach them to the aluminum extrusions on the top of the printer, near the belt tensioners.

To replace the Kiyo enclosure with the one in this model, first remove the camera from the factory enclosure by popping off the LED lens.  Do this by gently working a 3D printer removal tool (like this) between the lens and the camera body.  It simply snaps off without screws.  Then, there are five small black tap screws under the lens; remove these and place them aside.  The camera body will simply pull off the enclosure.

I recommend replacing the USB 2.0 cable with a thinner one, but you can disassemble the Kiyo stand and use the factory cable, too.  The USB cable will need to be desoldered, however.  When removed, the camera body (and the outer LED brightness control ring) will be separated from the stand.  Insert a USB 2.0 cable into the replacement enclosure, solder to the camera, and mount the camera into the new enclosure using the same five tap screws.  Snap the LED lens back on and you're done replacing the enclosure!

Mount the 10 mm x 400 mm rod between the tensioners using M4 T nuts in the extrusions, and use M4 screws to mount the rod holders.  Use M3 screws to mount the camera to the rod.  My preferred way to route the USB cable is over the left extrusion (facing the printer) and into the cutout also used for LED lighting.  Alternatively, you can also route a thin USB cable into the Y stop cable holes near the tops of the enclosure panels.

To use this model, you'll need a camera and a 400 mm x 10 mm rod.  Here are some links to buy these:

• Razer Kiyo: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N1BYWB
• 10 mm x 400 mm rod: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CW96PPMF