Ruggedized gyroscopic bicycle drink holder

A great way to stabilize your drink while you ride! A lot of other models I found only seemed to work for lighter drinks and riding, half empty cups, or bikes with a lot of handlebar real-estate. I needed something that could hold an XL Dunkin Donut coffee, survive the pothole-laden streets of Chicago, and still not spill.

Like other models, this still relies on a set of gyroscopic rings to stabilize the drink through any twists and turns, and relies on the natural compliance of the ASA I used for this to give the drink the necessary Z-damping to keep it from splashing around too much.

 Furthermore, space on an E-bike's handlebar is pretty scare, so this model is made to fit into some more slim spots by relying on metal screws and double sided tape to reinforce joints that would otherwise be bulky to print. If space is still a concern, a longer mounting arm can move the drink away from the bar, as well, getting it out of the way of a lot of the wires and electronics that it might get caught on.

Parts List:

- The three rings (labeled inner, middle, and outer).

- The top and bottom handlebar mounts needed for your bike (I included two sizes, but you can easily print a shim for your own if it is needed).

- 8-32 (or M4) screws and nuts to act as the handlebar mount joint, connect the two of them together, and connect the rings/mounting arm to the handlebar mount.

- 4x 608 bearings (these can be either printed or off-the-shelf. The original version I made for my course project used ASA bearings).

- Double sided tape or rubber

To Print

I recommend ASA or PETG filament for all of the parts. This relies on the parts being a little compliant to help it resist any pot-holes, so something brittle or too stiff would probably just break. I believe I used 5 walls and 25% cubic infill for all of these, but the most important thing is that you use a tough filament (TPU only seems to work if you use a high durometer material and make it essentially solid).

To Assemble

1. Slightly flex the rings so that the pegs are in the bearing slots for the ring outside of it. Insert the bearings through the outside of the ring and slot in the pegs. You may need to add a little superglue to keep them all steady - I did not want to make the tolerances too tight.
2. Using double-sided tape or a high-friction rubber, wrap a small amount around your handlebar where you want the mount to go. Put the mount over it and lightly tighten the screws to keep it secure for now.
3. If you are not using the extension arm, you will need to point the mount down and forward a bit to keep the gyro level. If not, attach the arm to the mount and ensure you are happy with how level it is. Once you are, tighten the mount screws more to lock it in place on the handlebar.
4. Attach the gyro assembly to the mount/arm. Make sure the screws are tight. Don't be afraid to add a little threadlocker if you need to.
5. Don't crash.

Again, this has been very helpful for biking around Chicago where the roads are very cruel to drinks. If you want to make any edits, I have added the STEP files to this for anyone to mess around with! Here are some pictures and videos of an older model I did for my course project, before refining this further.